A question on rocksliders

Ben,

Yes I fitted the GOE sliders and compressor plate the weekend just gone and I'll post up photos as soon as I get a chance at home with daylight. I haven't seen too many photos of the plain version without any step/bar either.

So I fitted the straight sliders without steps/bars that I originally ordered but I was uncertain for awhile. In the end, I've decided to put the extra ~$600 for steps/bars into a front bash plate sometime soon, oh and the GOE drive day that's happening in Brisbane soon:D.

Anyway, the sliders are strong and a good fit. No direct experience in the bush yet but I reckon they'll offer excellent protection against hits from below and slightly sideways. Obviously the addition of steps/bars would offer more protection to the lower doors and it seems most people go for them. And it's difficult (for me at least) to judge what type of situations I'll be facing re damage to door trim or door proper.

If you want a sidestep of some kind (and lots of people do), then the slider with bar is a great way to go. Steps are not a priority for me.

The compressor plate does need some adjustment or modification, see other recent thread:http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/215112-fitting-goe-compressor-guard-after-amk-compressor-install.html
But once I've tweaked that I'm confident that it will offer good protection, which has been attested to by many other members here already.

Cheers,
Scott

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LRD414

I've just received my GOE sliders and compressor plate. I ordered sliders without stand-off bars but I'm now in two minds; stick with just sliders or change to the with stand-off bar version, which I think will require return and re-order. Doesn't look like bars can be retro-fitted.

Anyway, I'm after opinions regarding relative offroading protection, ie damage from below (slider) versus from the side (stand-off bar) is the question. I'm not too bothered about the sidestep benefit, mainly trying to weigh up the extra cost versus benefit gained. Does anyone have just sliders fitted? I guess so otherwise Gordon wouldn't offer them that way.

I don't expect to be taking the D4 into extreme offroading situations, eg probably not group 2 Lithgow (if I was to get a chance to attend). Nearly every photo I see has stand-off bars but I expect that the sliders alone will be excellent for impacts from below. However, rocks and obstacles that are higher would still impact on the lower door plastic trim area if leaning over enough without stand-off bars.

So it's like insurance in a way but maybe I should just save the extra $600 and put that towards repairs if I am unfortunate enough to receive a side impact. Also, I still want to get the front bash plate and it all adds up.

Any thoughts & experiences appreciated.:confused:

Regards,
Scott

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To be honest Scott, there wasn't a whole lot of difference in the offroading between the two groups.

The stand off bar can help if the track you're on is tight or you are close to objects such as rocks and tree roots, you don't need to be doing anything extreme to come across these obstacles, something to consider.

Baz.

Good point Baz re narrow tracks. That's why I found it difficult to decide:(. Anyway, time will tell I guess ... but in any case, the plain sliders are a big improvement on the stock plastic.

Scott

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redback

To be honest Scott, there wasn't a whole lot of difference in the offroading between the two groups.

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btw, I hope there's another one organised this year. It looked excellent and I'd be keen to go.

Scott

Not much to see with the doors shut
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lr...t-much-see.jpg

Slightly different angle
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lr...ocksliders.jpg

Drivers door open close up
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lr...-door-open.jpg

Passenger door open
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lr...-door-open.jpg

Close up showing integration with compressor plate.
You can also see where I have re-attached the end piece from the original plastic trim.
The cut I made to the plastic is still a bit rough.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lr...ted-slider.jpg

Shot from underneath also showing compressor plate
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/12/292.jpg

Regards,
Scott

Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere but I've read this and a number of other threads on sliders and couldn't find the answer.

Can anyone provide the actual (or even reasonable approximations of the) weights of the APT / Brad's (Metfit) / GOE sliders for comparison?

Thanks,
David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by l00kin4

Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere but I've read this and a number of other threads on sliders and couldn't find the answer.

Can anyone provide the actual (or even reasonable approximations of the) weights of the APT / Brad's (Metfit) / GOE sliders for comparison?

Thanks,
David

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Having had both GOE and Brads sliders, Brads are 25kg for the pair, the GOE sliders are approx half that, but they are alloy, not steel, don't know what the APT sliders weigh, I would imagine they would be about the same as Brads, being steel.

Baz.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redback

Having had both GOE and Brads sliders, Brads are 25kg for the pair, the GOE sliders are approx half that, but they are alloy, not steel, don't know what the APT sliders weigh, I would imagine they would be about the same as Brads, being steel.

Baz.

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Thanks Baz, that's really helpful.

Can I ask which ones you currently have and the rationale behind the choice?

I have Brads sliders on, easier and cheaper to repair basically, there's a small Fab shop in our town who is very reasonably priced and I can do any minor repairs myself if I need too.

Which reminds me, I need to take my sliders off and re-paint them, they're getting a bit shabby.

Baz.

Not sure if anyone has done this but I have a GOE compressor guard - I assume (?) the holes will line up but are there any other issues with putting that back on with Brad's sliders?