Thread: A question on rocksliders

Originally Posted by Bytemrk

I've got Brads sliders and a GOE Compressor guard....

No problem with fitting.

X2 ... I have Brad's sliders and Gordon's compressor guard, both an invaluable accessory if your inclined to give it a serious go.

I really like Brads stand off set of sliders. I once slid down a slippery bank backwards and that only thing stopping me from righting off the whole side of the D3 was Brad's sliders which stuck out far enough that they hit a rock in the bank and stopped the Disco. I still lost my passengers door mirror and the two doors suffered some dents but without them the damage would have been huge.

By the way the dent in the slider tube was impressive but the sliders are still straight.

I fitted a set of GOE slider plates back in May without any stand-off bars (refer page 5).
My logic was that I didn't need side steps and wouldn't do "extreme" tracks, therefore mainly wanted protection from below.
However it has always nagged at me, summed up nicely by Baz earlier in this thread ....
"The stand-off bar can help if the track you're on is tight or you are close to objects such as rocks and tree roots, you don't need to be doing anything extreme to come across these obstacles."
So I've upgraded. Ben from APT helped me install a set of his sliders complete with stand-off bars and skid plate.



The fit is excellent and the install was quite easy by making use of a trolley jack to hold the slider in place. Ben ran a tap through a couple of the mounting holes that were a bit tight from dirt or paint.

The skid plate welded to the underside of the bars serves two functions:
- prevents sticks and branches from hooking up between the bars and door
- protects the rear wheel arch from rocks sprayed up by the front wheels and probably will reduce mud flicked up on the doors a bit too



You can still see a gap between the plate and door sill so that any mud/dirt/sand that accumulates on the top side can be just washed out.
Obviously not tested yet in anger but I expect it'll make an already strong product even stronger.



Plus there is the additional "everyday usefulness" of easier roof access and better stone chip protection.




Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by LRD414

The skid plate welded to the underside of the bars serves two functions:
- prevents sticks and branches from hooking up between the bars and door
- protects the rear wheel arch from rocks sprayed up by the front wheels and probably will reduce mud flicked up on the doors a bit too.

You can still see a gap between the plate and door sill so that any mud/dirt/sand that accumulates on the top side can be just washed out.
Obviously not tested yet in anger but I expect it'll make an already strong product even stronger


Cheers,
Scott

Great post Scott. I few questions..

1. Are the skid plates standard on these sliders, or are they a mod requested by you?

2. What did they end up costing and was there a difference in cost to the standard ones without the skid plates?

Cheers. Mick

Originally Posted by The Fizz

Great post Scott. I few questions..

1. Are the skid plates standard on these sliders, or are they a mod requested by you?

2. What did they end up costing and was there a difference in cost to the standard ones without the skid plates?

Cheers. Mick

Can I also add steel or alloy?????
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Can I also add steel or alloy?????
Andrew

My guess is steel

APT Rock Sliders | Discovery 3 | Discovery 4 - APT Fabrication Custom Land Rover Parts & Accessories

Everything is steel on my APT sliders including the skid plate, which IIRC is 2.5mm plate. It is a non-standard extra that came from our discussion regarding stick and stone chip protection and Ben's knowledge of making products for comp trucks, which are apparently similar in design.

Also, I know he's done versions with a top plate instead, that's more like a step. I forget who posted it here earlier this year.

The skid plate wouldn't cost much extra but I paid standard price because I've got a couple more things in the pipeline with Ben next year.

Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by LRD414

Also, I know he's done versions with a top plate instead, that's more like a step. I forget who posted it here earlier this year.

It was Richard and Ron in this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...installed.html

For theirs, the step tread is alloy & riveted on to the stand-off bars.

Cheers,
Scott

Hey SCOTT

I know these are ATP sliders, but do you know if they would be more like 60mm or the 100mm protrusion that GOE offers?