Thread: Bad Press by the truckload

Agree with the concensus.

Nice editors column on p150 about becomoing a better driver rather than fitting more gear. Well written.

Sounds like operator error to me, but blaming the vehicle instead of admitting you made a mistake is kinder to the ego.

Sent from my GT-I8730T using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by AnD3rew

I fried my Llams unit when my alternator fried and took out the battery with it. I assume it happened when I jump started the car from my second battery, I had the cables on the positive terminal of the starter battery and the on a body earth point. It's possible the Llams actually saved the suspension ECU as it sits in the line before it.

Don't know why this happened, don't know what I did wrong or how I should do it better next time but interested to hear your thoughts in how to do it better.

I understood that Llams was working until the tech disconnected the Llams module so I suspect a 5V pin inside the module was shorted to ground, destroying the 5V regulator. Also, Llams only intercepts the height sensor signals rather than the 12V power supply to the suspension ecu so can't protect the suspension ecu from power spikes.

Originally Posted by discomatt69

Are you all serious??? Just when I was starting to think a D3 might be the way to go for a tourer I now find out they can't even be jump started without causing massive dramas WTF

Yeh mate,major drama's,better sell it now and buy a ''Not another Recall''. Pat

Originally Posted by winaje

They can easily be jump started without any dramas...!

+ve to battery, -ve to solid earth that is not battery.

There, no dramas...

There must be a drama with it,people struggle with it even thou LR used simple instructions,with pictures . Pat

Originally Posted by winaje

They can easily be jump started without any dramas...!

+ve to battery, -ve to solid earth that is not battery.

There, no dramas...

Yep if you read the vehicle handbook,its all there,if you don't,well see how you go....

I jump started an early D3 from my D2a on the east side of moreton island a few years back now,no issues at all.

Originally Posted by PAT303

You never jump start straight to the battery,it doesn't matter if it's a 2a or D4,in the L322 if you jump start straight to the battery not only could you fry the electrics but you could also set off the pyrotechnic guillotine that will leave you really stuck,or blow the main body ecu fuses which means the codes have to be sent over from the UK and be downloaded.If you read the manual it's written down in easy to follow steps and under the bonnet there is a bright red positive terminal and a black negative terminal in plain sight NEXT to the battery,Land Rover made it idiot proof,it really is idiot proof but obviously not idiot proof enough for Davo or Simo to work it out. Pat

So what's the right way to do it? Like for example, my Disco I 300TDi?

Originally Posted by PAT303

You never jump start straight to the battery,it doesn't matter if it's a 2a or D4,in the L322 if you jump start straight to the battery not only could you fry the electrics but you could also set off the pyrotechnic guillotine that will leave you really stuck,or blow the main body ecu fuses which means the codes have to be sent over from the UK and be downloaded.If you read the manual it's written down in easy to follow steps and under the bonnet there is a bright red positive terminal and a black negative terminal in plain sight NEXT to the battery,Land Rover made it idiot proof,it really is idiot proof but obviously not idiot proof enough for Davo or Simo to work it out. Pat

Pat.
There arent any jump start terminals on my D4 next to the battery,nor where there any on my D2.
Just installed a dual battery system on the D4,as I did on the D2.Would have seen them if they were there.
There is a direct posative feed to the fuse blocks,I wouldnt jump from those.
Andrew