Seat Belt Piller Anchor Bracket FOR HK HT HG Holden Kingswood Premier Monaro | eBayQuote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Or go to any wrecker and pull out the seat belt anchors from an old Holden (other makes probably have similar).
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Seat Belt Piller Anchor Bracket FOR HK HT HG Holden Kingswood Premier Monaro | eBayQuote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Or go to any wrecker and pull out the seat belt anchors from an old Holden (other makes probably have similar).
Found it. juststraps.com.au > Steel fittings - BP25. $2.85 each plus $13 (!) for delivery. They do list stockists also but I didn't spend the time to go and check. A bit of lazy online shopping. And of course as BMKal said there are other options.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Only thing I would say is that there is limited space between those seat mounts so check the size of the fitting first.
David
Hi, if I was doing this again I'd try a bit harder to keep the weight down because it is pretty heavy. Easiest way to do this is to have a single (rather than double) thickness ply base and cut out most of the middle of it, leaving a frame still plenty strong enough but nowhere near as heavy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet6x6
This is possible with the clearance that the fridge slide itself has because of the way the runners are 'nested'. With the Waeco slide I have, I only really needed a single layer of timber as the slide itself has about 20mm from memory, so that combined with 20mm for the ply gives the 40mm required to clear the tailgate. I hope I'm making some sense - if not tell me and I'll post a photo to explain more clearly.
David
That makes perfect sense. Many thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by l00kin4
Just to extend on this slightly, the latch mechanism sits under the slider tray and is pretty close to the tailgate as per pic below (this is with a 40mm base thickness), so as others have done the best way might be to build a single layer base but add a little extra height to the rear edge so it slopes up and out. That should ensure there is enough clearance. I can measure the gap later if it's helpful.
David
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1474947875
I completely follow what you're saying, its the same principle of offset that the guys use when building draw systems.Quote:
Originally Posted by l00kin4
David this has been brilliant, thank you so much.
Olly
What I like about the BOAB drawer system is that, without the storage boxes it is very light. You can remove the boxes and their contents in a matter of seconds when you do not need to carry all that gear with you - it then becomes one big empty drawer that you can put the shopping on etc. Or if you want, undo the four turnbuckles that hold the thing down to the OEM luggage tie-downs, and one person can easily lift the drawer frame in or out of the vehicle (after removing the fridge first). ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/136.jpg
The other good thing is that this drawer system is just the right height to raise the fridge slide to "just above" the lower cut-out section in the D3 / D4 bottom tailgate.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/137.jpg
It's as though the D3 / D4 was made for this - who needs to open up the entire tailgate to get into the fridge? :p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/138.jpg
That is an excellent setup. One question- do you need to stand on something to see into the fridge?
Thanks, David
Not if the suspension is in "access" mode. Even SWMBO who is "vertically challenged" can see into the fridge and reach things in the bottom at this height. I can see / reach quite easily with the suspension at "normal" height.Quote:
Originally Posted by l00kin4
The only issue with having the fridge this high is that you cannot lift the lid right up & over to get it out of the way, as it hits the tailgate. It means that you have to have one hand holding the lid up while loading / unloading the fridge. I'm working on a way to overcome this though - have had some success with an "occy" strap from the front of the lid to the upper tailgate hinge - trying to think of a way to do this that doesn't look like it was whacked together by Dodgy Brother's bush mechanics.
Also, because you can't lift the lid right up, you also can't lift the wire basket out of the fridge, which would be handy sometimes - though it hasn't really bothered us so far.
I have seen a modification to this style of fridge slide which allows the fridge to tilt downwards at almost 45 degrees once the slide has been extended. Have been thinking of looking at something like this - but's another of those jobs still waiting for a "round tuit". :p
Hi guys any good recommendations for a drawer fabricator/Installer.
The last one I bought was Drifter in the Defender but didn't like the fact that they don't use rollers they just make the drawer to fit in its hole sitting on Teflon slides.
Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner