Hope this helps.
Folks,
on a TDV6 2.7 have read a few times about the turbo actuator arm sticking which causes a headaches with pickup and performance.
Seems to be a simple fix of proding, pulling at it with suitable hooked gadget and maybe a little magic spray.
My problem is where is this thing hiding under the hood? Now don't say next to the turbo!
Any photos, extracts from service manual etc would be appreciated.
Next problem.
Windscreen washer reservoir. Either the tank of filler pipe somewhere is leaking. Now I did have a quick look and low and behold LR have hidden it within the bumper area by the look.
How the hell do you get the frigging thing out? I dont' wat to start pulling things to bits till I understand what needs to happen. Too many fragile clips to break. Mine also has the LR spots with the mounts that go down through the bumper into the cross member adding to the complexity.
As I live on my own with just the D3 for transport if I pull it apart and strike a problem I'm stuffed.
Any help would be appreciated
cheers
Peter
Hope this helps.
thanks mate that helps. do you have any info on how to get the blasted bumper cover off without breaking it?
I'm thinking it is the neck that is leaking, not the actual tank but till I can get it off who really knows.
Torbo rod, ok see what it is now but do you have any diagrams that show where all of that is located?
Do I need to access through the wheel arch or is it plainly obvious once you removed the plastic engine cover?
sorry to be dense
Bumper cover removal is pretty straight forward.
If you can see the turbo (try looking from under the car following the exhaust) you might make out the actuator arm.
I'll need to PM you the image as uploads get compressed.
You need to get onto that if you do dirt roads.
My ex D2 came from Broome.It obviously had a similar problem wilst up there.I gave up getting the little dogs to wee on the windscreen,back window and headlights.There are lots of pressure points(valves) in the system,the red dust set like cement in them and the tubing.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Peter - have you cleaned the MAP sensor?
The other day I was fiddling with the D4 as I was trying to keep under the wife's radar, in case she found things for me to do and we all know where that leads.
I decided to clean the MAFs and was pleasantly surprised next time I drove it to find out how much quicker it went, yet there was no visible dirt, maybe a slight dusting, in the tubes. This is the first time since new (86000km) it has been done and in future I will do it every 30-40000km and less if on dusty roads. Still wearing the permagrin as it is awesome on long trips.
2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.
MAP sensor, yes I check that fairly regualrly, last time it was full of gunk and gently cleaned it with some carb spray cleaner. Did not make a lot of difference.
MAF, I did check that and could not see anything on it so left it.
What is best way to clean thsoe? Assume there is more than one? I found the one in the filter box.
rufusking: got the PM and ahve provided email, many thanks. I will print that out at work in colour in A3 to assit my eyes a little
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						2 MAFs on the 3.0 being 1 for each turbo.
I've never given a thought to cleaning the 3.0's MAFs yet cleaned the TD5's often.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
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