Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Waterproofing Discovery 4

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    South yarra
    Posts
    3
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Thumbs up Waterproofing Discovery 4

    Hi all, this is my very first post!
    I'm heading up the Old Telegraph Track in July and after seeing some of the creek crossing videos, I'm wondering if I need to do anything to waterproof any known gaps or holes in the Discovery 4? I've added a snorkel but absolutely want to avoid electrical system failure. Could this be a problem? I don't want to kill my 4WD! Is raising the suspension 5cm a possibility? I know I could do the bypass roads but that won't be any fun. Regards Robert

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    212
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Welcome!!

    I'll be watching this thread with interest as we're also planning a trip up to Cape York in July. See you there! 😀

    Planning fitting a snorkel soon too.

    Some info here about waterproofing the exposed electrical systems: DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - D3 Electrics and Water...solutions?

    Gordon (gghaggis) from GOE also recommends using LPS-2 for protecting electrical connectors that might be at risk from water contamination. It's listed in his GOE Offroad Companion Booklet that you might consider a worthwhile investment: Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation

    Also check out his EAS rods for suspension lift: Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation

    Llams is another option for suspension lift: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/1...d3-d4-rrs.html

  3. #3
    Tombie Guest
    Welcome...

    A radiator Blind (tarp for the front of the vehicle) is a great investment.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Forrestfield WA
    Posts
    1,306
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The biggest risk is stopping in Nolans or something similar, which will start to let water into the car and wet things like the amplifier under the drivers seat. The second biggest risk would be getting water on the transfer case module under the bonnet, which will kill it and not be good for you.


    Have a look at the Misadventure video of the guys going through Nolans. The D4 had no problem but I didn't risk it in mine and went the long way round. Not worth stuffing up your car in such a remote place.


    We only did the first half and then did the chicken track to the Development Road so that we missed out on quite a few of the iconic crossings. I didn't feel cheated or anything!


    I unexpectedly had water over my bonnet for a short time on one crossing. I was worried about the transfer case module and stopped to have a look. Everything under the bonnet was dry. It didn't even look like I had been near water. This is due to the bonnet seals which create an air pocket for quick dunkings. I assume the air would leak out during a more sustained crossing. I am used to my GQ Patrol which would be soaked in every part of the under bonnet area.
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2019 Discovery 5 SD6 SE, 20 inch wheels, 275/55R20 Nitto Grappler G2 tyres

  5. #5
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,737
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Electrical connectors & conformal spray

    I have been reading in Gordon's book, on Disco3 and in here about protecting the more vulnerable connectors and ECUs as part of a "waterproofing" strategy. A few products get mentioned, eg LPS-2 and they all are basically spray-on products.

    My question is about application of these products, having never used one. Is it as simple as spraying all over the item from outside?

    Do you need to target particular areas, like the interface between the two halves of a connector or exposed wires coming out of a connector, etc?

    Is there any risks to items from getting carried away with the spray?

    Presumably there is no reason to open a connector if there's no actual problem, ie only use contact cleaner if you have a problem or fault active and obviously take contact cleaner with you.

    I don't want to create a problem by doing a preventative measure (conformal spray) in the wrong manner.

    Thanks for any advice or experiences with these products.

    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ellendale Tasmania.
    Posts
    12,986
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    I have been reading in Gordon's book, on Disco3 and in here about protecting the more vulnerable connectors and ECUs as part of a "waterproofing" strategy. A few products get mentioned, eg LPS-2 and they all are basically spray-on products.

    My question is about application of these products, having never used one. Is it as simple as spraying all over the item from outside?

    Do you need to target particular areas, like the interface between the two halves of a connector or exposed wires coming out of a connector, etc?

    Is there any risks to items from getting carried away with the spray?

    Presumably there is no reason to open a connector if there's no actual problem, ie only use contact cleaner if you have a problem or fault active and obviously take contact cleaner with you.

    I don't want to create a problem by doing a preventative measure (conformal spray) in the wrong manner.

    Thanks for any advice or experiences with these products.

    Cheers,
    Scott
    The main ECU to protect is the trans ECU, it's on the drivers side under the bonnet, rear back corner standing upright in a black box opposite the horn and of coarse the main ECU, behind the battery, get these wet and it's the end, but if you're in water that deep, you'll have more to worry about than just the ECUs.

    The D3/D4 is suppose to be sealed that well, that you have up to 30 minutes before it will start letting water in, whether that's true or not, I don't know, so as long as the water isn't bonnet height, things like the ECUs should be fine.
    Having looked over our D4, my biggest concern for letting water in would be via the spare wheel winch hole, that's a big hole and only covered by a very loose fitting seal.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,394
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    my biggest concern for letting water in would be via the spare wheel winch hole, that's a big hole and only covered by a very loose fitting seal.
    That's a good point Baz. I can tell you through bitter experience that it is possible to fill the underfloor area in the rear and all the footwells up to the door seals without causing any problems though.

    Cheers,
    Jon

  8. #8
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,737
    Total Downloaded
    0

    spray

    Quote Originally Posted by jon3950 View Post
    That's a good point Baz. I can tell you through bitter experience that it is possible to fill the underfloor area in the rear and all the footwells up to the door seals without causing any problems though.

    Cheers,
    Jon
    But I guess you'd have to be stopped or a long time in reasonably deep water for it to come up through the spare wheel winder.

    I've wondered about that hole myself, but for dust ingress, which you can stop by packing around the winder. I have an extension socket due to the rear drawers. I hadn't thought water.

    Anyway, for the electrical connectors etc, I was more thinking any connectors that are lower down (e.g. compressor ones?) for the conformal spray protection. I agree that if you find yourself in bonnet deep water, you've likely got bigger problems Is spraying a bit over the top then?

    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ellendale Tasmania.
    Posts
    12,986
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jon3950 View Post
    That's a good point Baz. I can tell you through bitter experience that it is possible to fill the underfloor area in the rear and all the footwells up to the door seals without causing any problems though.

    Cheers,
    Jon
    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    But I guess you'd have to be stopped or a long time in reasonably deep water for it to come up through the spare wheel winder.

    I've wondered about that hole myself, but for dust ingress, which you can stop by packing around the winder. I have an extension socket due to the rear drawers. I hadn't thought water.

    Anyway, for the electrical connectors etc, I was more thinking any connectors that are lower down (e.g. compressor ones?) for the conformal spray protection. I agree that if you find yourself in bonnet deep water, you've likely got bigger problems Is spraying a bit over the top then?

    Cheers,
    Scott
    Re-read the bit in bold

    Also having been in water up past the door seals when crossing rivers, I'd say no real need to waterproof the compressor wiring, also, it's exposed to all types of conditions all the time, mud, dust, water, sand and salt water and so on.

    I'd be more worried about doing the tracks and water crossings safely, the D4 is no worse than any other 4WD really and consentrate on items not exposed to the elements all the time.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Posts
    173
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I did the Old Tele Track coming up to three years ago with absolutely no dramas, and some it was quite deep. Having said that, about three days after doing Nolans the car refused to start because the starter motor had sucked in water and mud and refused to crank. I would look at that first. Not sure if you can seal it with grease or vasolene or just spray it before doing any crossings.

    Scott.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!