Thread: Warning lights on after under body wash. Scan tool help

OK.Just consulted Gordons Bible.He suggests coating the connectors with an electrical sealant.Mentions 3 brands,LPS2 Marine spray(lasts 6 to 8 weeks).CRC Plasticoat(lasts 2 to 3 weeks).Radio Spares WaxOyl(lasts,have to scrape it off).
The connectors that need sealing.D3 battery area,Transfer case module is behind the battery,remove battery spray the contacts(D4 is moved to the drivers side battery area).EAS compressor,2 multi-pin connectors next to chassis rail under plastic cover.These are the ones where they remain damp and corrode due to trapped mud/dirt.Remove cover and treat.Rear passenger wheel,top of suspension tower,multi pin connector treat.
You may have already found these connectors.
Goodluck,let us know how you go.
Andrew

Why wouldn't you just spray every electrical connection under the bonnet along with those suggested ? Seems as tho it wouldn't hurt.

Cheers Ean

Originally Posted by Ean Austral

Why wouldn't you just spray every electrical connection under the bonnet along with those suggested ? Seems as tho it wouldn't hurt.

Cheers Ean

Why didn't Land Rover make them bloody water proof in the first place?
Wouldn't hurt.
Jonesfam

Cricky, that got the lads going

Originally Posted by jonesy63

Meh! Did they do that on the assembly line - the very first time power was connected?

No Rob, They didn't... because they were connecting power instead!

Originally Posted by BMKal

With battery leads disconnected, I fail to see how standing on the brake and pulling on the high beam switch can possibly effect a short circuit.

But, no doubt, there's mysteries surrounding these vehicles that I'm yet to learn about.

Brian, the switches are being closed providing a path for current to flow - same as touching the cables together. I was arguing with roadside assistance for 10 minutes(long story and no spanners) but he refused to touch the cables together insisting that he had blown major fuses doing so on other vehicles. All I could think of was that there must have still been power connected somewhere(DBS). I humoured him and let him go through his process. All I really needed was a spanner to disconnect the battery.

Originally Posted by Graeme

Disconnecting either the positive or negative battery lead to isolate power for 3 seconds is more than enough time to drain any residual power from supply-line capacitors in ecus. That is, all power will have been drained before one has time to detach the 2nd battery cable!

Graeme, I completely agree - I have an electronics background too although a little rusty these days.

Originally Posted by SBD4

Did you pressure wash the engine bay? If so you are likely to have gotten some water in the transmission Control module. Make sure you dry it out!

have a look here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...fter-wash.html

Hi, Yes I did wash the engine bay. I checked the TCM 1st and all was dry.

Hi all thanks for the info. I have checked all connectors mentioned except the compressor plug. I shall check this tomorrow. I carried out a hard reset last night but didn't make any difference. Then I thought it was all fixed this morning when I 1st started vehicle. No lights, all back to normal. I restarted it another 2 times all still looked good. I left vehicle for a couple of hours then restarted now the transmission fault light, special programs unavailable and stability lights on again. This vehicle drives me nuts.

I'm going to source a scan tool tomorrow, any suggestions on brands and models.

I'm currently in Bundaberg heading north on our big lap of Aus but am stuck here until I get this sorted. If all else fails does anyone know a good LR specialist up here. Reports on local dealer here say they have limited knowledge on LR even though they are a dealer

I recall a thread some time ago where someone had a cable dislodged from the transmission by a stick whilst 4wding. Perhaps a the wash has done a similar thing. I'll see if I can find the thread...

Found it. Not saying this is your issue but there are cables/connectors that you could check around the Transmission and transfer case - after you check the compressor per Andy's suggestion.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ult-codes.html