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Thread: DC-DC charger- which one?

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Peter as already pointed out numerous times, the cranking batteries in the D4s with the software problems are going flat in a few weeks, max, not 6 months.

    .
    So Tim, given that my car cycles at down to 12.2v, do I have the software problem?

  2. #102
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    Hi Peter and how do you know it is cycling down to 12.2v.

    Where are you taking the voltage measures?

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Peter and how do you know it is cycling down to 12.2v.

    Where are you taking the voltage measures?
    Two measures. OBDII reader and voltage display on my TPMS display wired to vehicle 12v supply. Both show cycling down to 12.2v on regular basis.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    So charging straight off the alternator really shortens the life of these batteries NOT.
    What? All I did was post the charging specs for a D34 battery and somehow I am suggesting that an alternator will shorten the life of this battery.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilvaD4 View Post
    What? All I did was post the charging specs for a D34 battery and somehow I am suggesting that an alternator will shorten the life of this battery.
    No Silver, I posted that up to show that you had confirmed that an alternator does NOT harm Optima Yellowtops.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoverLander View Post
    Two measures. OBDII reader and voltage display on my TPMS display wired to vehicle 12v supply. Both show cycling down to 12.2v on regular basis.
    If your D4 is cycling down to 12.2v, then your cranking battery is being discharged while you drive and that is not the intended operation of any alternator, with exception of the Stop/Start setups, where they have their own separate battery.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    is the charging software in the ecu or the alternator?

    would be possible to change to a "normal" alternator?
    Hi Eevo and sorry mate, I missed your post.

    To my knowledge, there is no workaround for a Land Rover alternator operating system.

    Nissans have a simple fix by cutting a single GREEN wire going to the back of their alternator and the alternator then runs at a constant 14+v all the time.

    Toyotas can have an Alternator Voltage Booster Fuse fitted and the alternator then runs at 0.6v higher than it is programmed to.

    As posted earlier in this thread, Ford allows the dealers to deactivate their Variable voltage system.

    Most other vehicles don't need any adjustments as they run at high enough voltages that the batteries are charged properly anyway.

    As to Land Rovers, there are few people around the world who develop special programs for Land Rovers, so with a bit of luck someone will come up with one to turn the variable voltage program off.

  8. #108
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    what stops an owner ripping out that variable alternator and putting in an aftermarket constant voltage one?
    Current Cars:
    2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
    2008 RRS, TDV8
    1995 VS Clubsport

    Previous Cars:
    2008 ML63, V8
    2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
    2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion

  9. #109
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    The car would most likely go into limp mode as the ECU requires an alternator input and would read the change as a fault

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by THE BOOGER View Post
    The car would most likely go into limp mode as the ECU requires an alternator input and would read the change as a fault
    give the ecu a fake input that makes it happy.
    Current Cars:
    2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
    2008 RRS, TDV8
    1995 VS Clubsport

    Previous Cars:
    2008 ML63, V8
    2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
    2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion

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