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Thread: Closing gap between door and slider plate

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbowner View Post
    Hi
    Is this worth doing?
    I am also interested in this thread. 2 weekends ago on a muddy and wet track I had quite a lot of mud to clean from that gap and splashing further up towards the factory door seals, so I think it is worth doing if it keeps a majority of it out.

  2. #12
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by wbowner View Post
    Hi
    Is this worth doing?

    Tombie are you finding it necessary with the APT sliders .

    I don't appear to be getting anything coming through but have not tested them properly yet


    Richard
    I did get a bit more dust in, but I have scuff plates on the panel which move the outer seal away from the body where the seal touches the edge...

    The D section extrusion stopped a lot of this.

    I'm now considering having an alloy plate laser cut to the original profile and fitting it to the slider to make the gap disappear...

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    I did get a bit more dust in, but I have scuff plates on the panel which move the outer seal away from the body where the seal touches the edge...

    The D section extrusion stopped a lot of this.

    I'm now considering having an alloy plate laser cut to the original profile and fitting it to the slider to make the gap disappear...
    Is there any issue with water due to sliders being fitted?

  4. #14
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Closing gap between door and slider plate

    I'm finding it to be worthwhile. Mine is not ideal, being attached to the door because the slider surface is a dimpled finish. However it seems to work quite well. Photos of closed door and then opened.

    Scott

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437724431.329074.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437724454.646169.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437724509.437839.jpg
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~Rich~ View Post
    I've had mine on for 4 yrs, still doing the trick.





    You need to suss out the best position in regard to the height up for the existing seals to mate with.
    Rich - could you tell us where you got this? I've had a pretty good go at trying to find this profile in ~20mm but no luck.

    Thanks,
    David
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  6. #16
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    Clark Rubber!
    2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Tuff Ant Tree Sliders, Tuff Ant 18" rims, Nitto Ridge Grappler tyres 265/65 R18, Custom Lipo4 battery, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64

  7. #17
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    Thanks Rich That'll teach me to go to an actual bricks and mortar shop rather than trying to do everything online!

    David
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  8. #18
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    Self adhesive or did you need to glue it on?
    Ron

    2013 D4 SDV6 SE

  9. #19
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    Premium double sided tape
    2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Tuff Ant Tree Sliders, Tuff Ant 18" rims, Nitto Ridge Grappler tyres 265/65 R18, Custom Lipo4 battery, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64

  10. #20
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    Different approach to seal sliders

    Here are some piccies of what i did to solve the problem. i cut the plastics to fit that came off the sides, works a treat and looks really good
    Attached Images Attached Images

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