Thread: D4 Dual Climate Control - am I missing something?

Originally Posted by Basil135

There is NOTHING I can say to this that won't get me in trouble.

All's good.

I just thought that your "terminology" was an excellent explanation of one or two posts I had read earlier.

Originally Posted by Tombie

Have not seen a single increase or decrease in running the D4 with it off vs on...

Same here. I quite often run all the way down to Perth & back with the air-con turned off this time of the year. Hasn't made any noticeable difference to the amount of fuel used on the 1,200km round trip.

And if I want to vary the temperature in any of the four passenger zones in the vehicle - there's four little buttons on the top of my door panel that I can operate with a single finger without moving my hand at all ....................

Originally Posted by JamesH

I will try to take on the idea of running the aircon but I'm tighter than a fishes freckle and I always think about fuel economy.

The guys on the Myth Busters show actually tested this once. No discernible difference between air con on with windows closed and air con off with windows open.

Originally Posted by Tombie

Are you talking the metaphorical "walk into a room and stand by the fireplace"?

LR produce a perfect option for winter for this - Heated Seats

Seems I have a well informed female She just sets her side in the D4 at 23 and leaves it there... And I just leave it there... My side - 21... And doesn't move... Rear set on Auto to match the front...

In the 90... We have CC pack.

Re the fireside affect, to a degree, yes. I miss heated seats actually.

You don't understand the point though. You are indicating that for you, 21 is it. All year round. All the time.

I've been involved with heating a ski lodge (I'm an original member and an ex secretary of a ski club), and I also was advised by the prime architects of Dinner Plane village near Mt Hotham in Victoria (McIntyre Partnership Pty Ltd). Keeping a ski lodge comfortable is an issue and heating is expensive in the mountains. Hence I've realised that people like an interior to be cozy (i.e. warmer) in a cold climate, especially when they come into an interior from a cold place.

We might put our ladies down as being stupid and inept (and I get upset by my wife who doesn't follow the thermostat but just turns the temperature up to a ludicrously high level, and then later drops it down). But in actual fact, such women are behaving logically and following a practice that not only works for them, but actually follows established human behaviours.

One day when you set 21 degrees, the car computer will evaluate the outside temperature, scan your external temperatures and push the temperature up to 24 degrees for 6 minutes and then drop and down over a few minutes back to your set 21 degrees. But our setups don't do that and hence people (semingly women) do fiddle with the temp controls.

Rolls Royce (now Bentley) have for 30 years had up and lower temperature controls as well as passenger and driver. It frustrates me that companies still avoid such technology.

Originally Posted by nat_89

My D4 as soon as the car starts even on cold mornings even with it on auto will start blowing air and even if the air is freezing cold, where as the bosses Audi won't blow anything until it starts to warm up and then starts blowing warm air, i like the Audi idea there because jeeze its cold some mornings. But i must say the D4 has one of the best air con systems around even hot summers day it cools very very quickly and does a great job.

My D4 works like the Audi, and Toyotas and Lexus's - when in Auto mode, it doesn't push air until the air is quite warm.

I have found that the D4 takes longer to get to that stage than my 150 Prado did (a Kakadu which has a thorough computerised heating system).

I have wondered whether the delay in getting warm air coming in is due to the Land Rover engineers wanting to get the motor up to temperature as quickly as is possible. However, if I switch to manual, the air still doesn't have the temperature that the Prado would have had in a similar time from start and driving situation. Perhaps this is due to the V6 having more metal to heat up compared to the straight 4 cylinder in the Toyo 3 litre. Perhaps Toyota uses more diesel while the engine is cold, and hence has a faster warm up. Getting warm faster is good for pollution too as the catalyser doesn't work properly when cold. I've read praise too in the UK about how powerful the Prado heater is, and I thought such reports reflected perhaps on the Land Rover not being as high in capacity. I guess I learn more in the snow, but I have a foot issue and cannot ski this year.

I do though think the Land Rover air feel is better than any car I've been in, and better than the Kakadu Prado, in that the car never feels stuffy which IMO can cause fatigue. Although IMO the Disco has some vagueness in the temperature sensors knowing what is going on, as a few times I have found that its a bit cool on 21 but on 22 its too warm.

Originally Posted by Melbourne Park

My D4 works like the Audi, and Toyotas and Lexus's - when in Auto mode, it doesn't push air until the air is quite warm.

I have found that the D4 takes longer to get to that stage than my 150 Prado did (a Kakadu which has a thorough computerised heating system).

I have wondered whether the delay in getting warm air coming in is due to the Land Rover engineers wanting to get the motor up to temperature as quickly as is possible. However, if I switch to manual, the air still doesn't have the temperature that the Prado would have had in a similar time from start and driving situation. Perhaps this is due to the V6 having more metal to heat up compared to the straight 4 cylinder in the Toyo 3 litre. Perhaps Toyota uses more diesel while the engine is cold, and hence has a faster warm up. Getting warm faster is good for pollution too as the catalyser doesn't work properly when cold. I've read praise too in the UK about how powerful the Prado heater is, and I thought such reports reflected perhaps on the Land Rover not being as high in capacity. I guess I learn more in the snow, but I have a foot issue and cannot ski this year.

I do though think the Land Rover air feel is better than any car I've been in, and better than the Kakadu Prado, in that the car never feels stuffy which IMO can cause fatigue. Although IMO the Disco has some vagueness in the temperature sensors knowing what is going on, as a few times I have found that its a bit cool on 21 but on 22 its too warm.

I might have to get mine checked out then as I've found cold mornings it starts freezing me straight away haha!!

I did notice in my Prado 150 they heat up very quickly the heater. I think i read something from LR sometime ago about how the new models try and heat the engine up as quick as possible for economy so you could be onto something there.

Toyotas do have generally very very good heaters and air conditioners.

I will agree there with its brain not knowing whats going on as sometimes I've got it set at 25c on a warm day and have it on auto and then its still got the fan at a higher speed so i have to just turn it down to speed one because if i turn it up to 26c then it gets to warm, so yeah sometimes it can be a bit off the mark. Nothing to important but just a bit annoying.

When i had a Lexus RX350 jeeze it had good air con most summer days it had to be on 25.5c otherwise it was just to cold!!

Originally Posted by Tombie

Baz, I think he's referring to the point in time in which the vehicle has got sufficiently warm coolant to start pumping warm air...

I've noticed in Winter the engine barely runs warm by the time I'm at work
Starts to just produce reasonable heat by about 2km from home... (no stops in my journey).

Once its going - it works amazing...

As a Toyota owner, injector issues are always a heated topic*.

I think you should be taking your motor cycle to work - I think short runs in common rails are a bad thing. They need to get up to temperature, as otherwise you get deposits and premature injector issues. I do wonder about school mums and Discos, that do short trips from home to school.

So too after hard running, just switching the engine off is said by many to be a bad idea. Its best to let the engine idle a couple of minutes if you've been towing and working the motor. Evidently doing so prevents deposits attaching to a very hot central injector component as that part will cool down if idled for a short while, hence preventing particles attaching, which is a bad thing.

I have wondered too about the stop start technology that LR are using on these engines now in the UK ... which runs counter to what I just said. I can imagine pulling a van up an long hill and coming into a town, and I stop the car at a light ... and the engine turns off. Surely not good technology but it does make the fuel consumption better when under specific economy testing.


*pun intended

Correct. And one of the reasons our vehicles are then taken out of town for a nice hard run each weekend to clear them out.