Thread: 12S Tow electrics (white plug) removal

But once the aux is charged the battery's will join and both will equalise and charge

it's beer o clock

Originally Posted by josh.huber

But once the aux is charged the battery's will join and both will equalise and charge

it's beer o clock

Ah, but no. The batteries rejoin when the main gets to a certain level, not when aux gets topped up. If you go through the white plug it runs to the main. If you've run your Anderson to the auxiliary then no beer for you!

As said above if you ripped off the 12s and put an Anderson on then you're charging to the main. I'm talking about a new cable running from aux.

Will drop some piccies in tomorrow.

Basically, with what I've done from what you guys have said if you flatten the batteries to cut out, spend the 10 seconds to pop the bonnet and charge direct to the main. All other times, Anderson from the Traxide will do the trick, yeh?

Originally Posted by strydes

Basically, with what I've done from what you guys have said if you flatten the batteries to cut out, spend the 10 seconds to pop the bonnet and charge direct to the main. All other times, Anderson from the Traxide will do the trick, yeh?

Exactly what I was going to post EXCEPT

Originally Posted by strydes

Given I plan to mount my Anderson plug from the traxide there anyway when I eventually get it, I want to get rid of the white plug in preparation.

The rear Anderson with my Traxide kit stows in around the black plug (still neat behind the plastic cover). It's supplied length is based on that position, keeping the white plug in place. So you'll need to get a longer cable to bring it across to the white plug side.

I just left white plug in place. One day when I get a Ctek I'll also get a white plug adapter for it. But lifting the bonnet is probably no more difficult really.

Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by LRD414

So you'll need to get a longer cable to bring it across to the white plug side.

Yeh good tip, I'll have to ask Tim for an extra 200mm on the cable to make it work.

Pics attached. It would be maybe 10 minutes to put it back in, you can see the 4 clips where it attaches to the 12N harness alternating between being the male and female connector. I cable tied the 12N harness in those places where it no longer had the attachment to the body.

I have also now covered the remaining plug in the second pic in electrical tape until I get around to pulling out that section. Being where it is it will quickly get full off mud on the first off road or even wet day.

Originally Posted by JamesH

Ah, but no. The batteries rejoin when the main gets to a certain level, not when aux gets topped up. If you go through the white plug it runs to the main. If you've run your Anderson to the auxiliary then no beer for you!

As said above if you ripped off the 12s and put an Anderson on then you're charging to the main. I'm talking about a new cable running from aux.

Ahhhhhh, do some reading bud, even red arc smart isolators do this these days

it's beer o clock

And a 50 amp Anderson in place of 12s is not a good idea that circuit is fused at 30amp. If you pull 25 to charge your van for an extended period the fuse won't go but the wiring is guna get hot. It's not really big enough to run that sort of load. If you were to do that I would pull the fuse and put a 20amp resetable circuit breaker in its place. Or use the Anderson plug traxide supplies for this reason. His wiring is about 6 bs not 4mm. The other down side is the massive voltage drop your guna get from that wiring

it's beer o clock

[quote=strydes;2410932]In case anyone goes browsing for this in the future, the 12S loom comes out reasonably easily, there is a plug under the rear passenger underside of the car (directly under the tail light). I disconnected that, then removed the 3 or 4 attachment points where it hangs off the main towing electrics loom and fed it back through the hole for the plug. Needed some jiggling and squashed hands behind the weights on the rear subframe but taking it slow was managable.

It made fitting and torquing the main bolt for the Mitch Hitch heaps easier, and the hole that's left should be ideal for a Anderson plug bracket when I get round to doing the Traxide DBS. Refit wouldn't be much effort either if the reason ever came up.

I will also this week tackle removing the next section of the loom that runs up behind the tail light into the cubby hole just so that exposed plug isn't left out in the weather.

Anyone planning to do it and need pics or anything just let me know.