Thread: D4 3.0 Intermittent faults/warnings

Blown bulbs can definitely cause strange electrical problems with these cars so I'd start with fixing them first.

If that doesn't bring you any joy, check the battery as low voltage can also cause various electrical issues.

If a had a blown bulb on my Subaru it used to give me a blown bulb error message. Low voltage would result in the "Chg" light being illuminated.

When I have low voltage in the D3 it gives me a transfer case fault (Low Range not available" or something like that). Personally I find the Subaru method much easier to understand.

My money would be on the battery.

Scott

While Ive had no experience with the issue from what Ive read I'd change the replace the blown globe and see what happens.

If it is the battery (or one of the batteries) you'd be entitled to be annoyed at needing a new one after a bit less than three years. Drivesafe has explained many times how the Traxide system should prolong the life of the batteries.

What sort of use does the car get? Mainly short trips with longish periods of sitting idle, eg are you a Fifo? Have you taken it on a few camping trips where youve given both batteries a good draining by not moving for a bit? Do you ever top up using a battery charger?

When you say you have no found a good service outfit in Perth, do you mean you've been let down by the usual mobs, or have you not had the opportunity to check any out?

Good luck with it.

I suspect a wiring issue, perhaps a bad earth. I would start with discovering why the parker LEDs aren't working in case their failing to work is connected to the other failings. The headlight clusters have multiple earth supplies.

First thing I would be tracking is that LED connection to the loom.If it was a botched install with a "scotch lock" connector it may be affecting the can bus signal.
As others say,tail lights and also the brake pedal switch also cause caos.
JRT,Jordan Rover Tech have a good reputation,especially with the newer vehicles.
There are a couple that cant be named that should not be used,can only be revealed via private message due to the website name/shame rules.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LRD414

My money would be on the battery.

Scott

Mine too !!

Did a bit of looking around last night when I got home (in the cold & rain)...
The engine warning light had gone out later in the day (after being on for a large proportion of it).

1. Turned ignition on (didn't try to start it yet). No warning lights, symbols etc.
2. Traxide battery light was flashing. ~12.2V on the 2nd battery. ~12V on the main battery (low!).
3. Started car - 14.5V at both batteries (alternator working ok).
4. Noticed that there was a 'clicking' coming from the fuse box. Eventually managed to note that the 3 relays at the back of the fuse box that supply heated seats and heated washer water were all clicking intermittently. Roughly every 20secs, they'd 'click'. Weird. I don't have heated seats, or wash water.
5. Removed both batteries, to make sure there were no worn/loose wires/earths anywhere that I could see. A bit hit and miss, I know, but probably about the limit of my electrical testing ability! Couldn't find anything obvious. Although I do think that the negative terminal clamp on the main battery is a bit loose, even when tightened as much as possible. Probably more to come on this later (refer previous post by SBD4 that I think is relevant to me - here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...-new-post.html )
6. Put both batteries back. Tightened everything up.
7. Checked RH park (side) light. Noticed that they weren't off, just very faint. LH side lights work fine. Partially removed light (can't get it all the way out b/c of my bullbar). Lights came on. Played with plug into light (removed, sprayed some cleaner around). Lights work fine. Looks like some sort of loose connection, but not sure where. I installed the bullbar etc with a friend, and can vouch for the quality of install (no scotch clips).
8. Put everything back together. Started car. Lights working. 14.5V at both batteries (still). Did a quick burn around the block with no problems.
9. Car started fine this morning. No warning lights/symbols (of course that would be the case, because I was in the car, and not my wife, because nothing ever happens when I'm driving it@!!!).

So - still not sure.
The battery voltages when I started would indicate some sort of problem (either with the battery, or a faulty earth???).
The park/side light would indicate a faulty connection/earth... So maybe that's the link???

Need to get someone who "knows", to have a look, I think...

Thanks for all your input - I'll keep you posted.

Rob

From your latest notes I suspect that the parker LED issue was a red herring. The loose negative terminal would have a more general effect but not quite the same as a failing battery.