Front runner Slimline II Feedback

**BMKal** · 27th September 2015, 11:37 AM

Originally Posted by VK3GJM

i purchased the SL2 for it's static weight and carrying capacity, not because the D4 can carry 200kg, more about it's construction and versatility.

When assembling I used a nickel based threat lubricant on each bolt/nut. The FR SL2 is 2.5 years old and worth every cent in my opinion. I also concur with most if not all comments made.

A couple of comments/suggestions:-

When using long loads crossing several spans, annoying rattling can drive you mad on badly rutted/rocky tracks. I often use rubber stand-offs/pads to elevate what ever to ensure only the ends are placed and secured.

If you elevate the rack as high as possible, some creative metal work allows you to mount a long handle showed underneath and secure it.

Some additional metal work also holds other HF antennas underneath, out of the way, with easy access.

The hi-lift bracket system is great and easy access in minutes.

As for noise, as most have indicated, yes at speeds beyond 80km/hr it is notable empty, however, once loaded with the basics, well it is what it is.

At one stage I thought to make a mechanism to crank it up to the height of the garage roof but the effort to unbolt/bolt up when actually needed was to great. The navigator doesn't complain anyway.

Just positioned the mantras across the front of the SL2, again because of the versatile Tslot arrangement, any 8mm bolt will fit, therefore making small posts, brackets and bits bent aluminium/Steel brackets makes it easy to bolt anything small or large irrespective of it's mounting arrangement.

I carry all sorts depending on the trip and needs, I do try to stick with rook limits, 75kg in total, but that can be a challenge, thus my weight is distributed and properly secured, therefore the loaded weight + static weight are one with no movement possible. I also ensure everything is as low profile as possible, and if it's high it is light to keep centre of gravity low.

I have attached a shot of MY SL2 beyond capacity, blue box is empty, 2 x 20 ltd plastic jerry cans full. That weekend we did some serious 4wding and collected fire wood on the way around Dago, have never experienced any vehicle instability issues, yet again, you have to drive to the conditions and know your height/weight limits.

All up, I would recommend the product, and yes would buy one next time.

Happy travelling.

Regards

Gerald

Looks good Gerald.

I'd be interested to see what you have used to allow storage of long handled shovel and HF aerials under the rack. I've got a long range telephone aerial fitted to mine, and it would be handy to have somewhere to store the whip when I need to remove it from the bullbar, such as when going in for a service or when I put it on the boat to Tassie in January.

I've currently got the FrontRunner camping table mounted under the rack, so that takes up the middle section - but there's still room down the sides to fit long skinny items like shovel handle / aerials.

I have about a dozen or so "eye-bolts" on top of the rack and move these around to the positions required for securing down loads on top - usually an Oztent RV5 on the passengers side and a Rhino Bag with chairs / stretchers and other lightweight gear on the rear right, with a little room above the driver for a couple of small odds & sods.

You are right about the convenience of the "tracks" both on top of and under the rack needing only standard M8 bolts - this is so much easier than some of the other "brand name" racks which require that you buy their proprietary fittings at inflated prices.

**VK3GJM** · 27th September 2015, 06:49 PM

Mounting long handle shovel under the FR SL2 with 8mm T-slots.

I have the luxury of a Lathe and other metal working tools, so bending up and turning down fittings is easy. However, the same can be achieved with a very large rubber grommet and some basic tools such as a reasonable size bench vice.

Purchase a single Rhine rack shovel holder, this tightens onto the handle and secures it and stops rattles.

**VK3GJM** · 27th September 2015, 06:58 PM

This is a Codan HF whip with a large heavy spring base.

There is a base bracket and 14mm bolt and 2 additional whip supporting brackets, each with a rubber grommet to suit the whip OD, equally spaced from rear to front. 2 brackets will not do it, whip will hit vehicle roof or SL2, thus 3 is minimum.

I assume your requirements are a 3G/4G larger fibreglass whip. The principle is the same, may have to be larger brackets and grommets. The connector end ( Base ) may have to be adapted somehow to suit the base and a mechanism to secure it properly.

**BMKal** · 27th September 2015, 08:07 PM

Thanks very much for that Gerald. You've just given me a couple of projects.

The aerial that I have is an RFI "Q-Fit" and is very similar to what you have shown, except that in my case, the spring base remains on the bullbar and the whip screws off the top of the spring base. I am currently running a 9db gain whip for phone reception in flat country - will probably also purchase a shorter and lower gain whip for when in Perth / Tassie / hilly country.

**LandyAndy** · 27th September 2015, 08:12 PM

Brian loves his whips.
Whips me whilst Im wearing that kinky gear he posts from time to time

Andrew

**BMKal** · 28th September 2015, 11:10 AM

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Brian loves his whips.
Whips me whilst Im wearing that kinky gear he posts from time to time

Andrew

Just for you .........................

screenshot on pc

**VK3GJM** · 28th September 2015, 04:43 PM

Hi Brian,

Glad I could help, even if it turns into an idea....

**LRD414** · 22nd April 2017, 01:28 PM

Does anyone with a Frontrunner Slimline II ever remove it when not required?

I have a short Rhino Pioneer Platform that is hoisted into the carport when not in use.
I am considering a Frontrunner full length but would still like to remove it when not travelling.

Seems to be mounted via 4 bolts per side into the factory roof mounting points, so in theory would be easy to unbolt and hoist up.
However, are the bolts accessible with the rack attached? Mounting bolts may be hard to access with rack sitting on top.

Perhaps someone could have a look and take a couple of detailed photos of mounting points with removal in mind.

Thanks,
Scott

**BMKal** · 22nd April 2017, 09:19 PM

Originally Posted by LRD414

Does anyone with a Frontrunner Slimline II ever remove it when not required?

I have a short Rhino Pioneer Platform that is hoisted into the carport when not in use.
I am considering a Frontrunner full length but would still like to remove it when not travelling.

Seems to be mounted via 4 bolts per side into the factory roof mounting points, so in theory would be easy to unbolt and hoist up.
However, are the bolts accessible with the rack attached? Mounting bolts may be hard to access with rack sitting on top.

Perhaps someone could have a look and take a couple of detailed photos of mounting points with removal in mind.

Thanks,
Scott

Just went out and had a look and took a couple of pics. Not as difficult as I thought - at least on mine. But remember that mine is the old style of FrontRunner rack / mounting system. I am not sure exactly what the differences are between this and the new style.

Front legs are easily accessible from behind, with only a single bolt down into the track on the roof.

The rest of the legs can be accessed from behind (under the rack) and have two bolts per leg down into the track on the roof.

All of the legs have a single bolt through the side holding the upper and lower sections together. If it was me, I would remove these bolts first and lift off the rack, together with the upper halves of the legs. Then remove the bottom section of the legs separately, as you would then have much better access to the heads of the bolts going down into the roof / tracks. To re-fit the rack, I would first fit the bottom halves of the legs, but leave the bolts loose enough that you can get a bit of movement if required. Then lower the rack complete with the upper halves of the legs into place and insert the single bolt through each leg to join the two halves together. Once you have all bolts in - tighten everything up.

Hopefully the newer version of the FrontRunner rack is no more difficult to remove / re-fit than this is.

**LRD414** · 23rd April 2017, 07:03 AM

Thanks Brian. Do you have short rails that the rear feet bolt to (2 bolt) rather than direct to vehicle mount points? The instructions I read on their website show direct mount to vehicle without rails. Perhaps that something that changed with the newer design.

Cheers,
Scott

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