Thread: Front runner Slimline II Feedback

I used a ratchet ring spanner, just be careful though as the feet sit a little lower than the roof and therefore you can scratch the roof easily.
Yes, no need to drill any holes whatsoever. The gutter strip has removable plugs and rail feet sit straight over the top of the gutter strip.

Originally Posted by Mungus

The FR tables are overpriced; however, very nicely made and the S/S top has magnetic properties, so it is a low grade stainless.

So does the new style rack come with the mounting hardware for the table or is that an optional extra purchased with the table?

Scott

Originally Posted by LRD414

So does the new style rack come with the mounting hardware for the table or is that an optional extra purchased with the table?

Scott

Only comes with purchase of the table.

Very easy to make your own though - there really is nothing to it.

Originally Posted by BMKal

Only comes with purchase of the table.

Very easy to make your own though - there really is nothing to it.

Actually you can purchase separately. https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.co...h-rrac097.html

Would be easy to make your own, but the little clamp at the back is pretty nifty though.

Originally Posted by Mungus

Front bolt - small 1/4" socket set (short extension) gets it
Attachment 122415

Rear bolt
Attachment 122416
Rear and two more
Attachment 122418

Hi Magnus,

I noticed your "ditch moulding" hasn't been cut away from the front and rear feet as it mentions in the instructions. Do you think this is unnecessary? I was hoping not to make any cuts...

Cheers

John

KRLD028T.jpg

Originally Posted by Guss

Hi Magnus,

I noticed your "ditch moulding" hasn't been cut away from the front and rear feet as it mentions in the instructions. Do you think this is unnecessary? I was hoping not to make any cuts...

Cheers

John

KRLD028T.jpg

Hi Gus. If your ditch moulding is the type that is a thin alloy metal with a thin rubber coating and blanking plugs where the mounting threads are located, there is no need to cut it as per instructions. The rail feet pull down tight on the strip without distortion. If in doubt trial it first before unnecessarily cutting the strips. As mentioned somewhere else, it does pay to run a tap though those mount threads as they can be very tight. I didn't when I installed and I have come close to snapping a bolt trying to remove it one time, so I will do this in the near future.

Also on another point, I had issues (only because I'm fastidious) with the rack causing the roof lining to vibrate and the centre roof light to vibrate/slight rattle, when doing 100 or more. Wind noise was also very noticeable to me, but as above, I am one of those people who hear every rattle and squeak; however I could pinpoint the source to the deflector area, possibly awning bracket area. I wasn't sure if it was the max trax mounted across the rack or if it was the Manta awning brackets I got for my Drifta awning, as those brackets are large and high with large flat gussets. After messaging FR on FB about my concerns, I got a phone call and was told to remove the small rubber spacers that go between the underside air deflector and the rack track (as per instructions) and to move the two pieces apart leaving about 20mm gap between them. I did this last night and today found it hard to pinpoint any specific wind noise and no vibration evident. It's only 20 minutes of driving though, but hopefully this has resolved my issue.

I too am looking at fitting a full length rack - preferably a FR Slimline II to my 2015 D4.
However, my Disco is fitted with genuine full length roof rails.
Has anyone done this and if so any comments?
Also interested in any other suggestions / recommendations anyone has.
Thanks, Jock.