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Thread: Replacing the 7pin plug with a 12 pin one

  1. #1
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    Replacing the 7pin plug with a 12 pin one

    Hi,
    Just wandering how hard it would be to replace the 7 pin plug with a 12 pin one on my D4.

    What makes it a bit difficult i think is that i have a kaymar bar and a Mitch Hitch.

    Would i have to take either for both off, it sure looks very tight in there with the kaymar bar.

    Richard

  2. #2
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    I assume we are talking flat 7 & 12. I believe you can plug a 7 pin into one half of the 12.
    D4 2.7litre

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADMIRAL View Post
    I assume we are talking flat 7 & 12. I believe you can plug a 7 pin into one half of the 12.
    I look like I need to replace the 7pin round with a 12 pin flat but I am wondering how hard it will be given I have a kaymar bar and mich hitch.




    Richard

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbowner View Post
    I look like I need to replace the 7pin round with a 12 pin flat but I am wondering how hard it will be given I have a kaymar bar and mich hitch.




    Richard


    The MitchHitch isn't too much of an issue - had my 12S White plug replaced with a 12 pin flat by MLR

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...er-socket.html

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickO View Post
    The MitchHitch isn't too much of an issue - had my 12S White plug replaced with a 12 pin flat by MLR

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...er-socket.html
    I want to keep the white plug as it gives me an option for charging the battery.

    In my case it will probably be easier to just add a new 12 pin plug and keep the 7 pin round as is.


    Richard

  6. #6
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    I have replaced the factory rounds with a 12 pin flat (passenger side), Traxide Anderson plug (driver side) and Mitch Hitch installed between. Have done the 12 pin flat connection twice.

    First time disconnected the factory looms (plugs above exhaust passenger side) as when you cut the factory black round off... the remaining connections are too short to be able to do in place. But after a couple of water crossings... had some minor electrical gremlins due to water in the Narva socket. So have redone the connection.

    Second time soldered short tails (500mm) to the Narva socket and then potted the socket (Silicone Potting Compound PCT-7000 - Altronics $20). Then connected to existing wiring (soldered and heatshrinked each individual) with sufficient length (slack) if I need to get to it easily.

    Has been good since... no issues (Note: the factory sockets are potted). Happy to provide any information or photos... most of the information is on this forum... but in a variety of threads. I don't think that having the Kaymar bar will cause any install issues (the Kaymar is on my roadmap also).

    Also have redone the brackets multiple times... my first attempts where too light (now 3mm and using 2 the factory threaded mounting points). Have also changed the Traxide supplied boots with a waterproof Anderson mount from FleaBay.

  7. #7
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    Sorry, also meant to say that the 12 pin maintains all the wiring of the 2 factory sockets (black & white)... so you could still charge the main battery via the 12 pin. I haven't done this... as have the Traxide Anderson plug.
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