Note to self; you cant afford a D4 ever !!!!!!,
30 plus K for another engine fitted![]()
No problems with the 'Hi-jack' Dave. Perhaps DazzaTD5 may be better placed to answer those questions.
Some of my friends have suggested that maybe they hadn't drained the oil before re-filling??? The dealer did say that the bulk oil had run-out and they had to change the drum, so this may have impacted but to be honest, I don't know just how much was 'too much'.
They also mentioned that they always try to convince 'the old guys', mainly farmers etc., to always bring the vehicles in for service and not to top them up with oil like they always have with the old petrol Landy's as the consequences can, as I have found out, be quite dramatic.
I am fairly convinced that I will always let those that know what they are doing handle the servicing. Maybe not always a Dealership, as they certainly know how to charge and there are plenty of other Landrover Specialists around who are considerably more competitive with their pricing. Dealerships are certainly the go though for warranty work and the fact that I had a loan car whilst the service was happening and during the replacement was certainly beneficial.
Chappo
Note to self; you cant afford a D4 ever !!!!!!,
30 plus K for another engine fitted![]()
simmo
95 300Tdi Defender wagon
I'm glad my tdv8 RR has a dipstick.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Chappo's D4 has a dipstick as well - the guy filling the oil until he could see it!![]()
On a D4 (later 3.0 twin turbo) the secondary turbo bearing oil drain pipe goes to the sump, which in certain situations off road and over filling the engine, the drain into the sump is lower than the oil level and doesnt drain causing strain on the turbo bearing oil seal. If left for long enough the seal fails and will push oil into the intake. A diesel engine will quite happily run on most hydrocarbons..... such as engine oil. There is a mod kit that puts the oil drain pipe for the secondary turbo back into the side of the block higher up on the engine. (maybe the very latest D4 (the one with black tail light surrounds and no "4" on the back) has this done already from factory).
I have had a D4 in where it had pushed about 4 litres passed a failed turbo seal into the intercooler and as it was being unloaded off a truck it just started to do an increase in revs, until i jumped over and turned it off. the seal had been leaking and they had over filled it.
So in regards to the OP's issue, maybe the seal had been leaking a bit already, didnt have the mod done, they over filled it and it popped the seal on start up... I dont really know as I wasnt there.
The oil level can actually be checked on a cold engine that hasnt been started via the service menu, I've always found it accurate, when compared to the amount of oil I have added and also when comparing oil levels using a diagnostic tool.
Regards
Daz
Not quite - the original drain goes to a small reservoir at the bottom of the sump to be reclaimed by a scavenger pump. The drain design was changed to feed directly to the sump because the scavenger pump is not 100% effective in all conditions and allows oil to accumulate in the turbo drain pipe which eventually backs-up and escapes past the still-good turbo seals into the inlet tract. The seals were never designed to prevent oil under pressure from escaping, under pressure due to a blocked drain and a pressurised feed.
The 4.4 TDV8 up to the same turbo drain design-change time as the 3.0 suffered from the same problem but its drain to the scavenger pump reservoir was replaced by a twin drain - one to the scavenger pump reservoir again and another directly to the sump. Retrofitting that drain is a major task.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Yes thanks for clarifying, I realise it goes to the scavenger part in the sump, I've had them apart.
Not sure if we are talking about the same thing though with regards to the turbo oil drain pipe mod for the secondary turbo on a D4. Its a blanking plate for the sump, a new drain pipe that bolts from the turbo to the side of the engine block, half way up, takes about an hour and a bit to do. I normally do it the first time a D4 comes into me for service, if it hasnt already been done. I have heard its the same drain pipe and location for the same engine in a Jag.
Regards
Daz
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