Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: 12S Socket 30amp Battery feed; is it a hoax?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Port Elliot, SA
    Posts
    56
    Total Downloaded
    0

    12S Socket 30amp Battery feed; is it a hoax?

    Background
    I have a 2008 RRS (Disco3) to which I have fitted Tim's Traxide dual battery system with a 50amp Anderson plug to the rear bumper and a permanent 25amp supply to two 12V sockets in the cargo area (Traxide designation D3-Kit-DS). The 25amp circuit replaces the ignition switched 12V socket in the cargo area, and ?frees up? the switched supply that powered the single standard socket setup.


    Hardware
    Our caravan has two Anderson plugs fitted. The first connects to the 50amp plug on the RRS and it charges the 2 x 110 AH house batteries. The second Anderson plug is to run a Dometic 3-way fridge which will draw 22.9amps at 12V, and to also maintain the breakaway Brakesafe battery.

    Assumptions

    • Pin-4 on the 12S socket is a 30amp permanent feed
    • Pin-4 feed is via the F8 fuse (fuse box under glove box) labelled ?Trailer Pick-up (Battery Feed)?
      Pin-3 is the earth for Pin-4
    • The ?Freed-up? switched supply (from the Traxide kit install.) could be used to convert Pin-4 to a switched feed via a 30amp relay



    Problem defined

    • System seemed to work fine for a about 10 seconds, but then died.
    • F8 30amp fuse checked and found to be good. Mystery!
    • Blue cable with pink trace looks too small for 30amp.



    Attempts to fix

    • Had several attempts which involved ripping out most of the cargo area trim ? getting good at that at least!
    • Called Tim and discussed at length possibility that there might be a cable problem in the loom somewhere between the fuse box and the 12S socket.
    • After yet another attempt, disgusted I went inside and attacked a bottle of Glenfiddick
    • At the end of the next session later that night I replaced a battery feed fuse (3) in the tow hitch box
    • The following morning (after having re-attached all trim, and declared eventual defeat the night before) I couldn't resist getting out the multimeter again.
    • Having already forgotten about the 15amp fuse I replaced the night before, I discovered I had 12.6V on the battery side of my relay control to Pin-4.
    • Got out the portable compressor and attached to the 12S socket and started the engine of the RRS. Switched on the compressor and it ran well ? for about 10 seconds, and then stopped. All was dead.
    • Still not attaching any significance to the aforementioned replaced 15amp fuse, I immediately checked the 30amp F8 fuse, which I found to be in as-new condition.
    • Then, it dawned on me that the much publicised and talked about 30amp battery feed to Pin-4 might have always been a 15amp feed. And it is?

    Conclusions

    • So I have, as have many others, believed wrongly that a 30amp live battery feed is available at Pin-4 of the 12S socket. May be it is in other Land Rover flavours, but for my RRS it is not a 30amp supply: and I suspect it isn't on any LR either.
    • Having arrived at this conclusion already, starting a new thread might be seen as superfluous, but on the other hand, given the grief that this issue has caused me, and many others here and possibly also in other markets, I reckoned it would be worthwhile to post it.

    I would be interested to know if others had arrived at the same conclusion.

    Next Step

    I will now install a separate 6B&S (or maybe an 8B&S) cable from the Yellow Top auxiliary battery to another 50amp Anderson plug. I will locate a suitable relay/solenoid in the driver's side rear quarter panel, where I have the existing 30amp horn relay performing the same function on the now abandoned ?30amp? Pin-4 supply on the 12S socket.

    Footnote
    When I started writing this post it was to seek help to getting the 12S Pin-4 to deliver 30amps. A thought that briefly flashed by me was that the factory had made a wiring error, but of course they hadn't. The error was mine, having too eagerly accepted the conventional, or crowd, wisdom that the 30amp Pin-4 feed was correct. I had looked at the 30amp F8 fuse marked trailer feed and simply assumed it was the feed to Pin-4 of the 12S socket.

    When I look back I have never seen any official LR reference that there is a 30amp battery feed on the 12S socket. But I saw many references and assumptions in numerous posts here and in the UK, and elsewhere, that it was a fact, which I accepted as factual; accepted without question.
    This, I think, is quite a good example of not looking for the simple explanations first. I have found it instructive; I hope other Aulro members do too. And if not instructive, then may be mildly entertaining!

    John ?

    PS: There seems to be a fairly common but false belief amongst many Disco/RRS owners (including me) that there is in fact a 30amp live battery feed to Pin-4 of the 12S socket. As an example only, refer to Muddy Diver's post of May 2013:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post1920062

  2. #2
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,737
    Total Downloaded
    0
    John,

    Have a look at this thread from earlier this year.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...cket-amps.html

    It highlights the confusion due to differences between documentation (wiring diagram / topix / owners manual) and changes between model years.
    It seems to be confirmed at 15A for last few model years, which is as per the owners manual.

    For example, I have an MY14. Here is my owner's manual stating both ignition feed and battery feed are 15A (sorry for rotated photo).



    And here is my glovebox panel also stating both 15A



    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Williams West Aust
    Posts
    20,998
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Did you have the engine running whilst testing????
    The ECU shuts the ignition off after a short time if its not running,could explain why it goes "dead"
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    659
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Even with a 15 amp load on the 12S plug there have been occasions of shorting/burning of the plug between pins 3&4,apparently due to movement of the pins.In the UK they prefer a 13pin replacement utilising a bayonet type attachment.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Port Elliot, SA
    Posts
    56
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by LRD41

    952
    John,

    Have a look at this thread from earlier this year.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...cket-amps.html

    It highlights the confusion due to differences between documentation (wiring diagram / topix / owners manual) and changes between model years.
    It seems to be confirmed at 15A for last few model years, which is as per the owners manual.

    For example, I have an MY14. Here is my owner's manual stating both ignition feed and battery feed are 15A (sorry for rotated photo).



    And here is my glovebox panel also stating both 15A



    Cheers,
    Scott

    Thanks Scott.
    Good points. My RRS is D3 dna and where battery feed fuse in the manual indicates 15amp on F48 on your D4, mine is 30amp on F8.

    Likewise the trailer icon appears on the fuse map on F8. LR have a case to answer! Not hard to see why D3 owners have become confused over time.

    Cheers
    John...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Port Elliot, SA
    Posts
    56
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Did you have the engine running whilst testing????
    The ECU shuts the ignition off after a short time if its not running,could explain why it goes "dead"
    Andrew
    Yes, I had the engine running. But thanks, I did not know the ECE shuts the ignition off the engine isn't running.
    John

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!