There are excellent photos and description on the first few posts of this thread.
Scott
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There are excellent photos and description on the first few posts of this thread.
Scott
Yeah I know. I was just trying to show that even with a significant leak the car is certainly driveable if you have a Gap IID to reset it. Therefore there is not the same urgency to get it fixed pre-emptively and if you can check for the crack early on before it gets too big you will have even more time to get it fixed before it causes any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grentarc
The first I knew was when I got a Restricted Performance error which I reset. It was a few weeks before it got really bad and that was when I discovered that you could keep the revs down and it wouldn't error, so you have a fair of warning to get it fixed.
Towing shows it up quick smart. If you can’t make your own smoke tester then you can place two sheets of white paper under the engine cover over the top of each manifold and go for a spirited drive. If there are any leaks you’ll have oil on the white paper.
Joy of bloody joys. My drivers side manifold was replaced at 160k km. My passenger side just split at 254k km, having given me a P006A error up a hill. Can see the split.
Going to consider doing this DIY. Anyone on here with some tips? I know the fuel pipes need to be replaced to ensure a good seal. Looks like EGR needs to be freed up to make room. Sigh.
Having been involved with Justin's RHS recent change, the LHS EGR valve appears not to present the same challenge as the RHS with more clearance between the mounting bracket and the manifold.
Tip: clean all around the manifold thoroughly, perhaps with spray degreaser.
Thanks Graeme. I took a gander. Looks like I need to remove all the fuel lines to get the rail removed to remove the manifold. Looks like the EGR pipework and secondary polution pipework also needs removal, plus throttle body etc. anything more than that to worry about? I’ve made my shopping list so far. Pretty much a grand just in parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
The other side injector pipes don't get touched and whilst Justin had bought a new fuel rail to HP pump pipe, it didn't get fitted because of lack of access to the union on the pump. The balancing pipe also didn't get replaced. We noted that the pipe contact cone is quite soft metal that reshapes well into the fuel rail. Whilst the injector pipes could possibly also reshape satisfactorily, because the injectors are removed their seat angles could easily not match their original position making the union more likely to leak.
It took us a lot of time to extricate the edge of the (RH) manifold from behind the EGR valve bracket, drilling a hole through the bracket to access the bolt head below it then trimming the edge of that hole enough to get clearance to remove the bolt, all with the manifold properly in-situ. We suspected that the instructions should have included removing the EGR valve so inspected the LH EGR bracket for when doing the left side but saw that there hopefully will be clearance.
Justin bought from Duckworths.
Thanks Graeme. Great tips. I’m finding the manual next to useless tbh. So many diagrams that don’t explain how they got to that point in the first place. I note it talks about removing accessory belts, timing covers and what not but I’m not sure if that’s also applicable. So far I see
EGR coolant crossover needs disconnecting leading to coolant bleed.
EGR injection pipe removal.
Throttle body.
Injector return lines
HP injector lines. You’ve implied the injectors also need removing to remove the manifold. Did you have the injector removal tool?
I’m tempted to just get someone to do it. I can see myself half way through cursing Land Rover and their stupid designs.
I did not need the injector removal tool, all I needed was a used injector HP fuel line screwed onto the injector (so that I had a handle to hold onto) and gave it a sharp pull - just make sure you have 3x injector refit kits instead of just the fuel lines - gives you new O rings, injector bracket, fuel pipe and copper washer, for not much more than the pipe by itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Justin didn't remove the cam belt. The manifold can be lifted with the cam belt cover in-situ by keeping the manifold pressed rearwards to allow the front to be lifted clear. It was a bit of a juggle with the 2 of us to get the new manifold back into position.
Very little coolant was lost with the removal of the cross-over pipe.
The throttle body needs to be rotated slightly to R&R. Justin will better remember the technique.