Thread: 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Seems prevention is better than cure....

"Greetings Professor Falken. A strange game. The only winning move is not to play"

But since I did, I spin that wheel every time I turn the key. You'd think with the vehicle having already done a crank I'd have a better than average probability of not doing another one, but I understand probability.

At least I know I won't do an intake manifold. So there's that.

Originally Posted by BradC

"Greetings Professor Falken. A strange game. The only winning move is not to play"

But since I did, I spin that wheel every time I turn the key. You'd think with the vehicle having already done a crank I'd have a better than average probability of not doing another one, but I understand probability.

At least I know I won't do an intake manifold. So there's that.

Absolutely.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Its almost like the "crankshaft lottery" us 2 7 and 3.0l owners play...

My 2010 built D4 is on its original manifolds and crank, touch wood no issues with either yet, but enough other issues (batteries, alternators, turboes, LCA's, air comp, struts, door latches, wheel hubs, brake sensors...)

Seems prevention is better than cure....

My MY10 3.0 is on 1 original manifold, original crank and just ticked over 260k kms, I do have a brand new manifold sitting in a box with all associated injector kits for if the other goes.
I am one for preventative maintenance as I swapped out the alternator at around the 210k km mark for a 220A one from the 4.4TDV8 (bit of bracket modification required and overrun pulley needed) before the original died. I have had to replace the AMK compressor reactively, which was something I would prefer to avoid again.
I think the worst failure I have had was the throttle housing delaminating at the join - I was plastic welding it weekly towards the end, and couldn't wait for the new one to arrive as I was running out of base plastic thickness.

Well, I get to join this club too... MY2010 3.0, towing ~1t camper up the coast to Leeman WA we got a loud pop, puff of black smoke, and loud wooshing noise from the right. Code reader, and oil all over the top of the right side of the engine confirm my fear...

Even without the trailer, and very gently getting moving, it throws the restricted performance error, so can’t even reset it (though it does after restarting). I think fuel use has gone up too, but not certain on that.
Annoying to be sure, but impressed that limp home mode still allows us to drive at the speed limit whilst towing (eventually, on the flat). I’m not ‘flooring’ it either.

Booked in to get repaired in a few weeks (he is very busy) and I’m wondering, given the extent of the disassembly required anyway, if there are any other parts ‘easy’ to change whilst in there. Both sides are getting done...

So far I’ve ‘recently’ changed:
Water outlet housing
Alternator
Serpentine belt
Timing belt

Ideas:
The AC compressor has had a whine, but haven’t bothered doing anything other than checking gas level

HPFP I’ve read about, though no symptoms to suggest any issue.

Crank - lol

Change all the rubber hoses?

Turbos?

Oil pump?

11yrs and 200k now, so not upset if I need to spend a few dollars in the engine bay to get another life. Far prefer preventative maintenance spend to a ruined holiday!

[/quote]
Ideas:
The AC compressor has had a whine, but haven’t bothered doing anything other than checking gas level

HPFP I’ve read about, though no symptoms to suggest any issue.

Crank - lol

Change all the rubber hoses?

Turbos?

Oil pump?

11yrs and 200k now, so not upset if I need to spend a few dollars in the engine bay to get another life. Far prefer preventative maintenance spend to a ruined holiday![/QUOTE]

life and km is about right for the plastic manifolds to go. Glad you are getting both done


AC sits down low and needs fan to be removed, but not a bad idea “whilst there”, especially if it’s whining. But this is at the bottom of the engine, not near the manifolds.

hpfp - if it ain’t broke.....

crank - hmmm, lottery, keep the good oil up to it, if it hasn’t gone by now, unlikely that it will (mines at 206,000 and that’s how I’m approaching it.)


turboes - again, it it aint broke, one is easy and can be done body on, the other not so much, body off job. Secondary fixed vane was $4400 to replace, the primary variable vane closer to 10k and was done under warranty).

oil pump- nope.

I’d suggest to get the original injectors flow tested and replaced if they are out of range (they are not serviceable items). The new ones come with the fuel pipes and crush washers.

Also, replace all soft vacuum lines and the connector pieces would be my suggestions

Originally Posted by veebs

Well, I get to join this club too... MY2010 3.0, towing ~1t camper up the coast to Leeman WA we got a loud pop, puff of black smoke, and loud wooshing noise from the right. Code reader, and oil all over the top of the right side of the engine confirm my fear...

Even without the trailer, and very gently getting moving, it throws the restricted performance error, so can’t even reset it (though it does after restarting). I think fuel use has gone up too, but not certain on that.
Annoying to be sure, but impressed that limp home mode still allows us to drive at the speed limit whilst towing (eventually, on the flat). I’m not ‘flooring’ it either.

Booked in to get repaired in a few weeks (he is very busy) and I’m wondering, given the extent of the disassembly required anyway, if there are any other parts ‘easy’ to change whilst in there. Both sides are getting done...

So far I’ve ‘recently’ changed:
Water outlet housing
Alternator
Serpentine belt
Timing belt

Ideas:
The AC compressor has had a whine, but haven’t bothered doing anything other than checking gas level

HPFP I’ve read about, though no symptoms to suggest any issue.

Crank - lol

Change all the rubber hoses?

Turbos?

Oil pump?

11yrs and 200k now, so not upset if I need to spend a few dollars in the engine bay to get another life. Far prefer preventative maintenance spend to a ruined holiday!

Hopefully I don't jinx myself.. but when I did my inlets. I had not heard about the failure of the oil cooler assembly..I would definately have done it while I was there.. Would save so much time and frustration in the future.
Fyi mine is MY 11 3.0l with 250ks

My inlet manifold experiences: P1247 restricted performance

And the TSB: https://disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/...or_Cracked.pdf

Originally Posted by Grentarc

The injector kits are new O rings, clamping plates (as they are sprung clamps), copper washers and pipes. No need to tell the ECU anything as all you are doing is pulling it out, and putting it back in the same spot. I found it quite therapeutic cleaning down the injectors and fitting the "refit kits" to them.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

New clamping plates (with fresh curvature to force the injector hard into the cylinder hole under tension), new o-ring for the body and the return fitting, a new copper washer on the base of the injector and finally a new pipe fitting.

In regards to the injectors, nothing needs doing other than putting them back into the same position you took them out of.

how did you manage to get No.6 injector out ?