Thread: 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems

Originally Posted by Discodicky

Just had a re-read of the Service Bulletin regarding these cracked inlet manifolds. The narrative says that they were not made to specification. This suggests that their manufacturer did not make them to Land Rover's design specs.
I take this as being it was a company other than LR.
Interesting.
I'd love to know the difference (if any?) between Genuine and OEM etc as the genuine ones are twice the price.

They would definitely not be made to the correct spec,thats why so many are failing.

Being a Ford designed and built engine,wouldnt they be made to Ford specs?
I would be surprised if LR had a different spec for the manifolds.

For the sake of 1800 bucks drive in drive out and piece of mind, I had both sides replaced with genuine after the passenger side popped after 215000km or so. Should be good for another 200,000km, plus someone else had the skinned knuckles from the replacement work. And 12 months warranty on the parts and labour.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

For the sake of 1800 bucks drive in drive out and piece of mind, I had both sides replaced with genuine after the passenger side popped after 215000km or so. Should be good for another 200,000km, plus someone else had the skinned knuckles from the replacement work. And 12 months warranty on the parts and labour.

I wish I could get it done for $1800! I got quoted $3400 plus anything else they found. Main drama was they could not do it until the end of February.

Originally Posted by Deefa

I wish I could get it done for $1800! I got quoted $3400 plus anything else they found. Main drama was they could not do it until the end of February.

Managed to get our cracked left manifold replaced around Christmas for under $3k and had planned to get the other side replaced in February as part of the next service when the indie had more time. As luck would have it only got 250km’s and the other side has cracked.

Originally Posted by Moggymitch

Managed to get our cracked left manifold replaced around Christmas for under $3k and had planned to get the other side replaced in February as part of the next service when the indie had more time. As luck would have it only got 250km’s and the other side has cracked.

Oh damn, sorry to hear that. It's easier to do both at the one time. The RHS is a bit more restrictive. I can see why they charge as much as they do. Every part of the job is a pain for access. It's not that difficult really If you take your time. Mind you I have not finished yet!

Hi there all,

I just thought I would update this post so that others doing this job in the future would have some tips. I have had the manifolds fitted for about 6 weeks or so and they are so far working fine. While I still remember here is some things I found

The LHS is much easier.
I had to make up a tool to remove the fan- To hold the pulley, LH thread on the fan.
The cast brackets to hold the EGR valve on must come out. On the RHS I had to cut the bolt off. (you'll know what I mean when you get to it)
Take lots of photos
Make sure the injectors go back in the same place
Fuel lines in my experience dont need to be renewed. But the workshop manual does say they do. The one that goes across the back seems impossible to remove.
Pull the bolts out of the manifold with a long nose pliers before you take the manifolds off.
Be really careful to not drop something inside the engine- cover holes with rags.
Removing the fuel return lines is a bit hard to work out, but a previous post on this thread shoes how. I used a little pick tool to flip them up.
The injectors will come out with a bit of a twist. The one right at the back looks like it will not come out but it just does. Put a little vasoline on the ends to hold the new washers on as you refit. I didnt order new O rings for the injectors as I didnt know I needed them. Took a little risk and reused the old ones. Again lubricate with vasoline.
Clean the injector ports with a long brush and air pressure
Glue the gasket on to the manifold as it will just keep slipping off and not seating correctly. - I used a few drops of superglue.
Sealer to the corners of the hump part of he head as it can leak.
I had to bleed the fuel system about 6 times before it started. Was getting worried I did something wrong. Eventually fired.

Lots of patience and time is required.

Have fun.

I got the dreaded limp mode and p006a. I removed the cover and had a squizz, a small amount of oil on the underside of the cover and on the inlet manifold - no visible crack though. Did notice that the crankcase breather has snapped near to the RHS manifold. Hoping it's just that!

Originally Posted by southseas

I got the dreaded limp mode and p006a. I removed the cover and had a squizz, a small amount of oil on the underside of the cover and on the inlet manifold - no visible crack though. Did notice that the crankcase breather has snapped near to the RHS manifold. Hoping it's just that!

It’s not that. If you can’t smoke test it yourself then do this. Get some A4 paper and place three sheets. One each above the manifolds and one above the throttle body. Place the cover back on over the paper. Take it for a good hard drive. Remove cover and check for and oil spray on the paper. You should have found the culprit.