Thread: Cable wiring for rear Anderson

Ashes,

Chat to Drivesafe on this forum, he will give you first class advice. He owns Traxide and really knows his stuff.

I can't remember off the top of my head the cable sized used in my Traxide kit... I have a feeling it may have been 6 B&S.

Cheers,

Looks Like I'm right,

This is the kit I fitted to my D4 - It's actually surprisingly simple to install as DIY.

D3-DU = USI-160 + ABG-25 + FPC | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

I used a D3 kit rather than a D4 kit as I wanted the space in front of my main battery to mount a compressor.

The Traxide kits are top quality,have used them in 4 vehicles now.
The kit is all cut to fit,easy step by step fitting instructions,even was easy in my D4,wich I did myself when it was brand new,a bit daunting,everything went like clockwork
A good reason NOT to run the cables along the chassis,some repairs require a body off,the Traxide gear comes thru the cab so if the body has to be lifted in the future the kit wont interfere.
You should run twin cabling,also NEVER connect ANYTHING to the neg terminal at the main battery,it will effect the battery management ECU.
Andrew

Thanks. I already have a usi160 installed and definitely know about not using the neg terminal on the main battery. Looks like a 50A CB is the go and 6B@S. Tim has already been helpful on other things so I don't need to hassle him directly.
I think I'll run the risk of the body off and the cable run on the chassis as I've already got existing cables through the firewall and I won't be able to fit a 6b&s twin cable.

Any thoughts on not running a full length -Ve cable and just earthing near the tow bar?

Originally Posted by Ashes

Thanks. I already have a usi160 installed and definitely know about not using the neg terminal on the main battery. Looks like a 50A CB is the go and 6B@S. Tim has already been helpful on other things so I don't need to hassle him directly.
I think I'll run the risk of the body off and the cable run on the chassis as I've already got existing cables through the firewall and I won't be able to fit a 6b&s twin cable.

Any thoughts on not running a full length -Ve cable and just earthing near the tow bar?

Ran my set-up off the aux battery in the engine bay, via a 60A thermo CB down through forward chassis and along the top of the rails. There is a fair amount of room to secure your wiring and like you - I reckon the risk of a body off situation was very low plus if the body was coming off - something catastrophic would have occurred and I wouldn't think twice of cutting the cabling and re-wiring once the body was back on.

There is a good earth point in use on the LHS of the engine bay that has enough room to install your earth to. To keep it neat, I allowed a bit extra length and hid the Anderson plug on the LHS of the tow hitch so when not in use, the plastic cover covers everything up.

I used fine strand old telecomms earth cables on my D2 for a rear anderson plug run - plug charges second battery on van through a DC to DC Redarc and also my boat trailer winch runs off it. The cables are at least as big as my ring finger and most of that is copper cross section. Zero voltage loss on a voltmeter... Dont skimp on that run.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Ashes

Any thoughts on not running a full length -Ve cable and just earthing near the tow bar?

These vehicles have good earth studs so IMO there's no reason to incur more voltage drop by running the earth back to an earth stud at the front. Perhaps the same can't be said for some other older vehicles in which case for reliability fit an earth wire back to the battery in those vehicles.

If you are going to run down the chassis, then run down the passenger side.
The drivers side is a s**t of a thing. Cuts, bruises & lots of swearing involved
Have run hundreds of cables down this side (& tried drivers) & it is the easiest.
Cheers