Thread: Tackling my 1st air leak

Removing the battery lead worked well. The D3 was in normal hight at the start of the night and the front passenger side had dropped by the morning.
The rear was still at normal hight and the front driver had dropped a very small amount.

The tape shows the rear did not move but the front did.



Masking tap to help identify if the wheel has dropped (tape was tight at start of test)



Blue chalk was last night, pink chalk was this morning. The top of the chalk mark is the datum.




This is the difference in hight on the drivers side



At a guess I'd say the passenger side has a leak and is dragging the drivers side down.

I'll try the extended extend leak test today.

Just so I can manage SWMBO, if it is the strut can I replace only one or is it better to replace both the front as a set?

Use a tape measure from the ground to underside of the wheel flare on each corner, that way you get a more accurate result.

Hi Rich,
I am not so worried about the amount of drop, more of locating the area that needs further investigation. I'm concentrating on the passenger side as that had the greatest drop.

I have used the soap test on the air bag in extended extension mode but I'm unable to detect any leaks.

I know it is not a massive leak as the car doesn't drop all the way to the bump stops over night, but I still want it fixed before it stresses the compressor.

If 1 air-spring has developed a crack then it wont be long before the other follows suit. Furthermore the shocks will be worn so 2 reasons to replace them as a set.

Darn it, I have just put a hole in passenger side rear strut gator while jacking the car up to remove the wheel. There was the head of a bolt or fastener that caught on a fold in the gator and ripped through as the strut extended.

The unit is still holding air, but I just added to my repair bill.

I didn't see that warning in the manual.

But I did read that double locking the car should turn off the tilt sensor. I'll let you know tomorrow if it is as effective as pulling a fuse.

Originally Posted by ~Rich~

Use a tape measure from the ground to underside of the wheel flare on each corner, that way you get a more accurate result.

i have done that as well,but you need to mark the guard with a pen or whatever so you always measure from the same place.

Follow the green hose from the corner valve to the bag as well,as on the D3 they often rub through under the engine somewhere.

The hose feeds the left front bag.

If your lucky that maybe your leak.

A lot on UK D3 site about this.

They fixed this issue on the D4.

Originally Posted by Gullible

Darn it, I have just put a hole in passenger side rear strut gator while jacking the car up to remove the wheel.

There was a hole already but if it now has a significant tear then best to replace it - the gaiter only, not the whole air-spring! I have spares from removed shocks that could be posted.

Originally Posted by Graeme

There was a hole already but if it now has a significant tear then best to replace it - the gaiter only, not the whole air-spring! I have spares from removed shocks that could be posted.

Thank you for the offer Graeme. I fixed the hole with a bicycle repair kit ($4.90) as it was on a flat part of the gaiter. It should see me through until I need new shocks.

Unfortunately there was a bit of confusion at the mechanics and they re-calabrated the hight sensors but didn't search for the leak. They will do a quick leak check on Tuesday and that should identify the problem.