Thread: Disco 4 trailer plug

Originally Posted by Smocky

Is there an option to wire something in to the CT wiring to fix this permanently without needing to have endless adapters?

Yep, Grab these. They come in a twin pack (one for each indicator). Join the two together at one end and splice into your CT ground wire. Attach the other end of each to the two indicator circuits.

To finish the job, buy one of these, and mount both of them in there, on the a-frame with a nice watertight grommet for your cable exit. Job done.

That's what I did and hence sold my Linear Electronics box of tricks.

Note that you don't need two of them to have the trailer detected, but if you're digging around in there anyway it's good to have the little trailer flash on the dash when you indicate left and right!

You need a Load Resistor like one of these...
LED Load Resistor - Products - Narva

I wired mine into the trailer loom in the car so I did not have to retrofit each trailer I use. It has a switch which I have to turn on to activate the resistor when I hook up a trailer with LED light.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post2225314

Cheers,
Chris

Originally Posted by strydes

Yep, Grab these. They come in a twin pack (one for each indicator).

That's what I did and hence sold my Linear Electronics box of tricks.

Note that you don't need two of them to have the trailer detected, but if you're digging around in there anyway it's good to have the little trailer flash on the dash when you indicate left and right!

Thanks very much, that's Saturday planned.

I had a 12 pin connection for my caravan as well as a couple of Anderson plugs.
I have had Andersons installed on the D4 via a voltage sensing solenoid for battery protection. I am also going to use the 12S connection. I have purchased the connectors from UK, very cheap.
I have discovered that some of the connections provide continuous power (which I find a bit risky) and that the fridge circuit is only on with the ignition. This is useful if you have need (as I do) for aux power (in my case to trigger an AES fridge). The 12S is actually quite useful.

I solved my 12 pin issue by rewiring the caravan. By the time you have the LED module and other conversions, it just seemed to be the easiest and neatest to go back to 7 pin plus andersons.

I noticed that somebody reminded you to get one of these modules.

I tried with my D4 and a caravan with LED lights. The lights worked perfectly, but the car systems did not sense that the trailer was connected. This would mean that the car would not be correctly set up for the towing, transmission and engine behavior etc.

I have had a module installed in car (rather than a lead based version).
The system I selected is Linear Electronic Design

Linear Electronic Design | Home

If you have questions or want advice, the operator of this business is very helpful and has a lot of information abour Discovery's.

Hey thanks,

Yeah I ended up just getting the module for the van because I really don't want to be mucking around with switches or stuff like that. I have two kids under three, so anything that makes it simpler is tops in my book.

Also regarding the plugs, I made up a bit of a connection using two round seven pin plugs to a twelve pin plug which I have cable tied to the hitch and plug the van into that. Whenever I stop for a extended period I will remove the white plug to prevent drain on the battery. This will probably stay like that until I get the duel batter set up, then I will permanently fit a 12 pin plug.

Just on the connection to LED light thing. Yes all the lights worked as they should, but all the things (rear park sense, lane departure warning, etc..) remained on. It got a little annoying the when we first towed. Lights flashing and warning buzzers when I turned sharp, but the biggest annoyance was that something the vehicle needed to be prompted to change down for a larger hill when speed was reducing.

With the module, instantly I noticed it would hold a gear for slightly longer and be more proactive in selecting the right gear for a hill. The mirrors stopped flashing at me and when I reversed, it was nice and quiet.

With my 6x4 i might just fit the load resistors as it will be far cheaper and worth less than the trailer.

Thanks to every one who replied.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using AULRO mobile app

[QUOTE=cjc_td5;2512674]You need a Load Resistor like one of these...
LED Load Resistor - Products - Narva

I wired mine into the trailer loom in the car so I did not have to retrofit each trailer I use. It has a switch which I have to turn on to activate the resistor when I hook up a trailer with LED light.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post2225314


Neat job Chris. How is it going 18 months on?

Is a single resistor on only 1 indicator circuit enough - does the dash trailer indicator flash both left and right, and are the rear sensors disabled?
Also, where have you put your switch - driver seat area or down the back?

Hi, I've read this thread and hope that I can get some clarification from others. Have just picked up my new Disco SdV6SE, and am trying to get my head around setting it up for towing my camper. I understand the black socket on the RHS and have tested it with my camper and all seems to be ok.

On the old Toyota I had an Anderson plug at the rear for charging the batteries in the camper whilst driving. My question is do I need to run a seperate dual core cable from the starter battery to the rear of the car for the Anderson plug, or can I use the two power & earth cables already in the White plug to charge the camper batteries (joining cables 6 & 4 for power and 7 & 3 for earth)

Thanks in advance,
Bill