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Thread: ?Cruise Not Available?- Brake switch, battery or both??

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    ?Cruise Not Available?- Brake switch, battery or both??

    This morning I went to start the D4 and while it was cranking well, it just wouldn't start. Tried a few times but didn't want to flatten the battery. I checked the voltage on both batteries. 12.18 cranking and 11.5 on the 2nd, so both a bit low. The Traxide had isolated the 2nd battery (probably because I had forgotten to turn the Engel 40 Ltr off freeze!!).

    Called roadside assist and they sent the RACV. In the meantime I put the charger on the main battery.

    He jump started me first time and then did a series of checks on the battery. While the tool recommended replacement of the cranking battery, he said I should charge it overnight and see what happens. He also said my charger is not good enough (3500 Ah Projecta, bought years ago for a different car).
    I have since driven the car into the CBD (35ks, mostly freeway). While on the freeway, the cruise wouldn't work. It's been working fine and I have used it extensively over the past few weeks on a 2500 trip from Melbourne to Sydney via the coast and then back via the Hume.

    I have noticed that pressing the brake pedal when starting that there has been some hesitation. The switch has been replaced previously but that was probably 50K ago. I'll get a switch today. How easy are they to replace? I'll also upgrade the charger but don't really want to spend the cost of a new battery on a charger. The current battery is the original from 2012. I have had the Traxide in for 3 years.
    Thoughts?

    Luke

  2. #2
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Luke,

    I think this is battery related rather than brake switch.

    The faulty brake switch issue is usually preceded by faults such as HDC not available and/or ABS fault and/or EBC fault and sometimes lowering suspension. I have not changed mine but the instructions and photos at this Disco3 page for the brake switch are pretty comprehensive:
    DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement

    I think that a 35km drive after a jump start would not add too much to the battery SoC. I'm guessing that's only 30 minutes driving.

    I spose it is also possible that the cruise control steering wheel controls have a fault but that seems too much of a coincidence together with the flat battery.

    Regards,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  3. #3
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    How did you go about the main battery charge,ie how did you connect the charger??? MORE IMPORTANTLY,how did the RACV man connect the jumper leads???
    Its an important question.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    How did you go about the main battery charge,ie how did you connect the charger??? MORE IMPORTANTLY,how did the RACV man connect the jumper leads???
    Its an important question.
    Andrew
    Hi Andrew,
    The RACV guy connected straight to the cranking battery with no apparent ill affects. It stared first time and after a couple of 45 minute city runs over the past day or so, the cruise control is now back working fine. This morning I measured the charge prior to starting. It had been sitting idle for 12 hours. Both the cranking battery and the optima is at 12.34 (The optima flickered to 12.35 and back)
    I will make a habit of putting it on the charger at least weekly now as we have decided to relegate the D4 to school runs and holidays. I have put 80k on it in a little over 2 years so I am now looking for a smaller run about.
    On that point, should I connect the charger directly to the optima or to the cranking battery?
    Luke

  5. #5
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    Luke.
    Its important that NOTHING connects to the negative terminal on the main battery,hence my question before.Put the +VE on the battery and -VE to the earth post near the main battery.
    The battery has a battery management ECU,conneting to the negative terminal can kill it.
    Monitor you battery charge over the next few weeks as its possibly damaged.It tells the "smart" alternator when to charge.
    I use a Jaycar ciggy lighter voltage readout.Very handy to monitor the electriggery.It will surprise you how often the vehicle isnt charging.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

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