Maybe a tight wheel bearing or worn suspension bushes. Could also be in the front transfer case. Good luck finding the cause.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SupporterHi All,
I'm new on here but think I've scoured the forum enough to check my question's not been posted already. Apologies if not. Hope you can help.
I've got a 85k km 2011 D4 3.0l SDV6 which I've had for 16 months/25k km and am very pleased with. However, ever since I've had it, the steering wheel turns slightly and it pulls slightly to the left when driving. When held on-centre, the car tracks as it should.
The vehicle has been aligned several times by Trivett Land Rover, Alexandria, NSW (and has been put into 'tight tolerance mode' so the suspension isn't adjusting whilst aligning is being done) but there is never any improvement and Trivett are unable/unwilling to help.
The alignment 'might' actually be OK as when the steering wheel is held centered, the vehicle tracks straight and true however when released it pulls slightly to the left.
During the alignment, the tyres have been checked and rotated several times so I think the problem is independent of the tyres.
Tyre wear is even too (which sort of makes sense for a car that, when the steering wheel is held central, drives straight). The tyres are Michelin Latitude 255/50/20 and are all the same age. The rims are LR 20" upgrade.
I don't think the pull isn't caused by camber as it occurs even on neutral or off-camber roads too.
The car brakes in a straight line without further pulling.
The pull occurs almost every time the car is moving, but there do seem to be (rare) occasions when it doesn't happen.
I wondered if the problem could be brake related but I don't have excessive fuel consumption or uneven brake/tyre wear that would indicate this.
What are your thoughts? Is this a LR mystery gremlin?
Look forward to your responses and I'll be grateful for any ideas to fix it - its driving me mad!
Cheers all.
Jon
Maybe a tight wheel bearing or worn suspension bushes. Could also be in the front transfer case. Good luck finding the cause.
Oztourer
MY05 TDV6 HSE, Buckingham Blue
Front Runner Slimline II roofrack and rear ladder, Safari Snorkle, Mitch Hitch, Traxide D3-DU, Bushman Fridge, Icom IC-440N UHF, Hema HN7, Tyredog TPMS, GVIF and reversing camera
Radial pull.
I reckon tyres.
Ron
Ron
2013 D4 SDV6 SE
 Fossicker
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						Supporter85k - lower control arm bushes - all aligns fine in ttm but once back to onroad self levelling it's getting a little loose.
Generally wheel alignment settings are designed to drift the car to the passenger side of the road - so if you do decide a nanna nap is in order you are more likely to drive off onto the shoulder than into oncoming traffic.
 Wizard
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SubscriberDo you have a recent wheel alignment data sheet ? The positive castor on the lh side should be about a 1/4 degree higher, to compensate for the camber of the road. The camber on each side should be pretty much the same. If it is different, it is preferable to have the rh side more positive. ( but there should not be a big difference regardless )
The rear toe can also influence the way the vehicle drives. It should be even both sides.
Tyres can be an influencing factor, but this normally something that arises when tyres are changed. ie. If you have recently changed the tyres or rotated them, and the vehicle now pulls one way or the other, ( and it didn't previously & the wheel alignment is technically correct ) try changing them around on the front end. If there is a pull to the left or right, and this reverses when they are swapped, you will have to look at changing the tyres, or putting them on the rear.
In my experience, most 3/4 Disco's ( and Rangies/Evoques ) even when setup with a technically correct alignment, will draw ever so slightly to the left. If your vehicle has always had the issue, despite tyre rotation, different tyres, and multiple wheel alignments, and you are satisfied they have been completing the alignments correctly, I would start looking at other factors.
I am not familiar with the internal workings of the steering rack used on the D3/4,but most power steer racks, have an internal torsion bar, and a power valve. If the torsion bar is bent ( normally takes an impact ) or the power valve is out of calibration, the vehicle steering can react as if dead centre is off centre. However, this is normally evident all the time. If you come to a stop, and let the steering go, and it shifts off centre by itself, I would investigate the rack. Sorry I don't know enough about the D3/4 rack to advise further.
D4 2.7litre
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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Mine does that after the last wheel alignment I had done. There was no problem before that but I had clipped a gutter and split the nearside rear tyre so I thought I had better get an alignment done. It was done at the place the dealer uses after I had a service and when I mentioned it at the next service they suggested that it could require another alignment. It's not severe but I now notice a very slight pull to the left that wasn't there before the alignment. Tyre wear is normal so that's not a problem so I have left it for the moment.
Martin
I'm in exactly the same boat Martin. The left pull is very slight such that I've been uncertain if I'm actually imagining it, given that most roads have camber to some extent.
My first alignment was a bit ordinary and I'm guessing the 2nd one was done properly (through the dealer).
Wouldn't the preferred direction of pull be to the right, against the road camber, ie towards the road crown?
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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D3 2005 V8 Petrol
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