D4 battery question

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28th March 2016, 09:31 PM
irondoc

Hi Paul

I have a 2011 2.7 D4 and my alternator behaves like yours - I have never seen it get above 14.0V. The maximum I have seen is about 13.9V. I have always had a voltmeter and it has done this since new, so I use an external charger every month or so.

Cheers
Lucas
28th March 2016, 09:40 PM
scarry

Quote:

Originally Posted by irondoc

Hi Paul

I have a 2011 2.7 D4 and my alternator behaves like yours - I have never seen it get above 14.0V. The maximum I have seen is about 13.9V. I have always had a voltmeter and it has done this since new, so I use an external charger every month or so.

Cheers
Lucas

I was hoping someone with the same model year would chime in.:)

What is the lowest you have seen your battery voltage if the vehicle has been sitting for a while before starting?Does yours have the traxide dual battery set up?

Do your batteries last longer than a couple of yrs?

So even running on the road driving it never goes over 13.9V?

Sorry for all the questions

Thanks in advance
28th March 2016, 09:48 PM
scarry

Quote:

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

When I charge mine,its always thru the aux battery,either direct or thru the rear anderson connection,its just the easiest way for me.I always make sure the Traxide is open before starting charging,I have the 160 unit.
Since having a software upgrade at the first service I havent had the low battery start engine when I unlock the car,even after 4 weeks.2 to 3 weeks would trigger it in the past.
I use a Jaycar ciggy lighter battery monitor to give a rough idea whats going on,since the software upgrade the D4 charges alot more than it used too.Worth getting one to see how your vehicle is charging.Before the upgrade it would sit on 12.6 or 12.7 constantly,then you take the foot of the accelerator downhill and it would jump to 14.7v.I rekon the "upgrade" just removes the smart charging that relied upon the alternator only charging on the over run or when it was pretty flat and now returns the alternator to a more normal style of charging.
See what Tim has to say.
Andrew

WHat does yours run at during normal type driving(not overrun),maybe this overrun thing has only been added in later models.

And what does it run at if the vehicle has been sitting and the main battery is down a bit on charge?
28th March 2016, 10:09 PM
LandyAndy

Since the upgrade,14.7 until full charge is met,then it sits on 12.7.
It varies quite alot depending how much charge is in the batteries.at the moment I have an 80lt split engel running all the time.I take my bait out and leave it at half temp at night,just has drinks in the fridge and 4 coke bottles with ice in the freezer.The bait goes in during the day and back on to freeze.
The fridge is always still operational in the morning,2 of the mornings down here the traxide was still connected to the main battery,ie hadnt tripped the voltage cut out.
Andrew
28th March 2016, 10:24 PM
scarry

Quote:

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Since the upgrade,14.7 until full charge is met,then it sits on 12.7.
It varies quite alot depending how much charge is in the batteries.at the moment I have an 80lt split engel running all the time.I take my bait out and leave it at half temp at night,just has drinks in the fridge and 4 coke bottles with ice in the freezer.The bait goes in during the day and back on to freeze.
The fridge is always still operational in the morning,2 of the mornings down here the traxide was still connected to the main battery,ie hadnt tripped the voltage cut out.
Andrew

So it will sit on 14.7 as you are driving along?
Or just on overrun?
28th March 2016, 10:50 PM
drivesafe

Hi Paul, with your settled battery voltage getting down to 12.2v, once the motor has started, your voltage should rise well above 14v, even for a short time.

Regardless of what vehicle it is, AGM batteries need to have at least a periodical charge voltage of between 14.4v to 14.7v.

Voltages up to 14.7v, even continuos voltages of 14.7v will not harm AGMs but will cause all the cells to equalise.

If yours and Lucas's voltages never get above 14v, then you can expect shortened battery life.
29th March 2016, 08:00 AM
lpj

I think I need a new battery

Hi all,
Having read through this and most other posts on the subject, I think it might be time for a new battery for me (MY12 3.0) Since being relegated to home duties, the D4 is just not holding on to a decent charge overnight. I'm having to have it on charge overnight almost every night now, and the traxide light is flashing when i don't. Its failed to start a few time despite long 40-50 drives the night before.
Anyway, i rang LR and the cost of the new battery is staggering. I cant even remember the exact cost- I think my mind has blocked it out!
What are people paying for a new battery? Hoping to get a better deal than I have been quoted.
29th March 2016, 08:10 AM
Silenceisgolden

For what it is worth (and I touch wood) I have just had the end-of-extended-warranty check and at nearly 5 years the battery checks fine. D4, 2.7, MY2011.

The car often sits unused for a month or more while we travel in our other vehicle and it has always started on our return. No DBS or other mods except driving lights.

I believe a battery should last 5++ years if not abused.
29th March 2016, 08:57 AM
drivesafe

Quote:

Originally Posted by lpj

What are people paying for a new battery? Hoping to get a better deal than I have been quoted.

Hi lpj, I have a PM for you but your PM folder is full.
29th March 2016, 11:25 AM
lpj

Quote:

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi lpj, I have a PM for you but your PM folder is full.

Should be OK now

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