PM sent.
Printable View
PM sent.
Hi Paul
the lowest I have seen is probably around 12.3. I have the redarc setup, so the batteries disconnect when one of them reaches 12.5v.
My first battery lasted just over 2 years, then I have just changed it out again after 2.5 years as it seemed to be not holding its charge as well.
Running on the road, it charges between 13.6-13.9V all the time. It doesn't have that overrun thing where it shuts off and doesn't charge unless it is coasting, it just constantly charges.
Maybe we should approach LRA for a technical opinion?
Happy to answer any more questions.
cheers
Lucas
Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
Thanks TimQuote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Ok,so what you are saying is the AGM battery is not really suitable for these types of vehicles,looks like they were designed for a different type of battery?
It actually had a different type from new,but i don't know what it was.
But the later D4 was more designed for the AGM.
Hmm,grasping at straws, i recon,but where to start,LR themselves or the local dealer?Quote:
Originally Posted by irondoc
The dealer will probably flog us off,no doubt.
Tombie also has a D4 same model,as does Sneigy,but haven't seem either of them around for a while.
As Tim has said,they haven't sorted out my issue completely either.
Since the upgrade,14.7V whilst driving until it is happy,then gradualy lowers to 12.7V,when I hear the freezer kick in it will go back up to 14.7V for a short time,then back to 12.7V.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
Once happy with its voltage it will then choose either 14.7V or 13.8V on the over run it seems.
Andrew
Hi Paul, your problem is the BMS software, not the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
That charging setup you have will not charge any type of battery properly.
Have you tried a HARD RESET?
Some observations from the two D4s i have owned. The first a MY10 the second a MY15.
The following has been observed in both cars:
* After the car was started and then running for a while it would run at 14.7v for a period of time.
* In the first approx 6 months of each car the voltage would then vary up or down depending on if i was accelerating, cruising or on overrun. The voltage would vary between 12.2 and 14.7.
* After approx 6 months (or maybe the first service as i cant pin point the exact time/event) both cars have stopped changing voltage as a result of acceleration or overrun. Both cars would settle at either 14.2v or 13.8v and be reletively stable regardless of electrical load in the car. I now never see 12.2v while driving.
The MY10 never had a battery problem or battery replacement in the 5 years of ownership. I replaced the battery at 4 years as a precaution before a trip around Australia.
I have no idea why this happens. Theories are:
* Landrover do a Volkswagon type thing to get the car a good fuel/pollution rating when new. This reverts to avoid battery problems at some stage ( a bit conspiracy theory like for my thinking)
* A software patch is applied on first service. Possibly if they see any type of second battery system in the car..
* The BMS determines that the battery has "aged" and that it should no longer vary the voltage down to 12.2v.
Note that nothing in terms of accessories or dual battery managent systems was changed around the time that the cars stopped displaying the variable voltage as a result of overrun or acceleration.
The electrical system and the software that manages it is a mystery and i suggest that probably only the engineers and software developers back in the UK could adequately describe how it works.
So i rang the local LR Dealer a week and two days ago,spoke to a guy that seemed helpful,he was going to make some inquires and call me back later in the day.
Haven't heard from him since,no surprise.
Need to do the hard reset as suggested by Tim.
Anyway i have turned off the SC80 to separate the two batteries,charged them both,just trying to check which one is not as good as it should be.My thoughts are either could be faulty and drags the other down.
Something i also need to check is the actual voltage at the main battery,compared to the voltage at the cig lighter, jay car unit,just incase there is a difference,while charging.
From specs,the D4 when fully asleep draws around 30ma from the battery.
Question for Tim,what does the older SC80 draw,is it around 80ma?
Thanks
Hi Paul, allow a current draw of 250ma while the SC80 is on and less than 10ma once it cuts out ( at 12.0v )
Hi
I have gone through the same issue as mentioned in other threads
I had LR check it out and they reckoned it was my tekonsha brake controller. I tested without it connected and still got the same problem
LR charged me a significant amount to do this testing as well
I recently went to an auto electrician. Unfortunately he was not familiar with discos and was fairly useless
At another visit to LR dealer I mentioned it to one of the mechanics and he said 2 weeks would be good for new discos. I mentioned I only get 1 week but I also had their electronic rust protection installed and he said that would be my problem
I am not sure how to disconnect this so have not tested it.
When I have to leave the car for more than a week I put it on a charger controlled by a timer which fires up two days a week.
Richard