Thread: D4 battery question

Hi Andrew, you may not have anything to worry about.

Every so often, the D4's BMS ( battery Management System ) will turn the alternator down to 12.2v, to carry out a discharge cycle of the cranking battery.

This involves the D4's electricals being used to discharge the cranking battery down to 12.2v, the theoretical 75% SoC point ( battery under load ).

Then the alternator will go up to 14.7v and stay there while the BMS evaluates the condition of the cranking battery.

From what you have just posted, it sounds like this is what is happening.

Just watch the voltage over the next few drives. It should stay up at 14.7v until the cranking battery is fully charged again.

Update on mine

First drive since having the jaycar voltage reader,which has an accuracy almost identical to my Fluke meter.

Voltage at 12.2 start,while driving,sat at 13.8 for about ten minutes,then went to 13.9 and didn't move.revs up,down,overrun,still at 13.9.Dropped to 13.8 when lights were on,then back to 13.9 as soon as headlights off.Ac on made no difference,stayed at 13.9,but if the AC fan was on highest setting,back to 13.8.
After a run of 38minutes,mainly highway running,at idle,still sat at 13.8.
When cold at idle before run it was at 13.8.

That Jaycar thing is fantastic,should have got one ages ago.

So any ideas?

It definitely operates completely differently to Andy's,but then it is an earlier model,different engine,software,etc,etc.

Hi Paul and with those voltages, there is something wrong with your BMS operation.

You should see voltages up to 14.7v, even if only for short bursts.

BTW, was the 12.2v reading before you started the motor or just after starting?

Thanks TIM,

Before starting it was at 12.2v.

OK,anything i can do,1 yr out of warranty,so no point going to LR?

Do you know anyone who actually knows what they are doing and can look at it?

MR do my servicing but they are not auto leckies.

Although they may know someone who could sort it,but Redcliffe is a long way to go.

I could possibly go back to LR as the new battery is shagged,or near enough to shagged,should have some sort of warranty i am guessing around 2yrs old at the most.

Thanks in advance

Hi again Paul and this might be clutching at straws but as this problem has been in your D4 from new, you may still be covered under consumer protection laws.

You could first try contacting LRA direct ( best of luck there ) but you never know.

Again, as this was a known fault that was never fixed under warranty, you are still covered.

If you have no luck with LRA, contact the ACCC.

Thanks again Tim,i will get on to them.Give that new local LR place a call on Tuesday????

Generally i like to stay away from them.


So they have no excuses,do you think i should disconnect the traxide system?

Any idea on the cause of this type of issue?

A software upgrade or am i grasping at straws?

Edit--- found the paperwork,battery replaced 23/9/14 "found battery failed cell,replaced and tested,reset systems,all OK."
I bet they tested nothing

Thanks again

Paul

Hi Paul and it's a software issue but whether they have a fix is another thing, but it is still worth the ask.

As for disconnecting your Traxide setup, they would be hard pressed to try and blame it for a Land Rover software issue, but still might be worth the effort to save yourself some arguments.

Note, you will first have to try to arrange something to be done through LRA.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Paul and it's a software issue but whether they have a fix is another thing, but it is still worth the ask.

As for disconnecting your Traxide setup, they would be hard pressed to try and blame it for a Land Rover software issue, but still might be worth the effort to save yourself some arguments.

Note, you will first have to try to arrange something to be done through LRA.

thanks Tim,

I can hear them already "We replaced the battery as it failed,and checked everything,and all was good.Since then an issue has occurred and that has caused the battery to fail." There is no warranty, Oh and you do owe us $250 for the time looking/testing the vehicle

I do have a switch in the thin neutral wire coming from the SC80,so i can turn it off when needed,which is handy.

Thanks again,will report back