Thread: spongy brakes after body removal

Not knowing the possible quirks of the LR system there is a way that is used on small aircraft, we use a new clean oil can and with some line pump each calliper fluid back to the master cylinder. It pushes the air bubbles along with it as the master cylinder is higher than each calliper.

Originally Posted by Plane Fixer

Not knowing the possible quirks of the LR system there is a way that is used on small aircraft, we use a new clean oil can and with some line pump each calliper fluid back to the master cylinder. It pushes the air bubbles along with it as the master cylinder is higher than each calliper.

Thanks PF. I don't think there is air in the lines as such, more concerned that there may be some caught in the ABS module...

Nanocoms are very good for flushing and bleeding brakes and the ABS on a D2.Unsure if they work on the D3.
With the D2 there is a relay you bridge to run the ABS for bleeding if you dont have a nanocom.Perhaps there is a similar method for the D3.Worth searching for.
Andrew

If the brakes are still spongy, there is still air in the system.
I use a simple brake bleed tool, has a hand pump that pressurises the container with brake fluid, doesnt require a compressor, then as with most brake systems, start from the furthest point.

Another forgot to mention item, when I disconnect the brake lines for body removal, I have small rubber caps that fit onto the metal brake pipes, and also the threaded end, thus sealing the brake system and preventing the brake hydraulic system from running dry, makes flushing after the fact very easy.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

If the brakes are still spongy, there is still air in the system.
I use a simple brake bleed tool, has a hand pump that pressurises the container with brake fluid, doesnt require a compressor, then as with most brake systems, start from the furthest point.

Another forgot to mention item, when I disconnect the brake lines for body removal, I have small rubber caps that fit onto the metal brake pipes, and also the threaded end, thus sealing the brake system and preventing the brake hydraulic system from running dry, makes flushing after the fact very easy.

Regards
Daz

Yep, that was it. Got a huge spurt of air from left rear, and now have excellent brakes. Kinda embarrassing actually lol

Once its fully mobile,give the brakes an absolute hammering then change the brake fluid again.You need to make sure you get rid of any moisture in the fluid.Its bad news even in a Series Landy,never mind a modern ABS equipped vehicle.
I used to change the fluid in my D2 every 12 months,only because the nanocom made it so easy.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Once its fully mobile,give the brakes an absolute hammering then change the brake fluid again.You need to make sure you get rid of any moisture in the fluid.Its bad news even in a Series Landy,never mind a modern ABS equipped vehicle.
I used to change the fluid in my D2 every 12 months,only because the nanocom made it so easy.
Andrew

Fluid was all brand new, but I know what you mean. Will change it again in a month or two, the hard part is finding a high quality fluid that's not clear, so that I can tell when it's flushed. Any suggestions?