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Thread: D4 - Lower tailgate - sticky button

  1. #11
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    Sean - re warranty, definitely not shy to use it. Just thought there was a quick, simple solution to resolve the issue as well as avoid two trips to the dealer (1st for diagnosis, 2nd for the repair). But agree, I have no appetite pulling stuff apart and getting blamed for causing the problem in the first place (especially when its during the warranty period).

    Scott - FYI, no difference re car on/off.

    Kind regards
    Mario

  2. #12
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    Moisture getting into the D4 tailgate latch is causing my 'same problem'.
    After a rough gibb river kimberleys trip then whenever the tailgate area gets a rain soaking then the latch goes haywire until it dries out.
    Any ideas and thanks scott/Andrew for starting this.
    Peter
    ps if I knew how I could remove the squeezie latch button insert and look...

  3. #13
    LRD414's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapelaw View Post
    if I knew how I could remove the squeezie latch button insert and look...
    The upper black trim is easy to get off ....

    This will partially expose the tailgate switch.

    Further disassembly may help to work out what's happening. There's a pdf guide at this thread:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ease-d3-6.html
    But note that it's related to accessing the upper tailgate latch so not directly related to your issue.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  4. #14
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    There is a LR3/4 TSB for this problem, it seems like its common - unless of course you live in Darwin where i do and had this problem - after 3 hours of trying to get into the top part of the tailgate from the inside the LR service techs gave up and hit the internet ! Idiots. I had told them what the problem was, and told them the part numbers to order and that the lower door hatch needed to be taken apart from the inside to get at the actuator - almost did their job for them and they still got it wrong ! I'd say go to a good large volume LR agent and get them to fix it before it breaks in the middle of nowhere and your beer fridge is stuck in the back and you can't get at it because of the cargo barrier, the dog, and the fact that you can only get at the latch from inside the boot - just saying ;-)

  5. #15
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    Thanks vasculardoc, can you clarify that they/I need to repair or is it replace the actuator mechanism in the lower half that unlatches/releases the upper half?
    Not the squeezie thingy (rev. camera area) mechanism in the upper 1/2 which I saw on a Russian site for $24.
    Or is it install an emergency release cable. Or both.
    I'm actually born-n-bred from there, we were living in the peewee camp mess house out at east point till I was 2/3 then moved to nightcliff, I believe the tin shack/house is one of the oldest houses up there, don't get back often! hope to take the family up there in the next couple of years.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapelaw View Post
    Thanks vasculardoc, can you clarify that they/I need to repair or is it replace the actuator mechanism in the lower half that unlatches/releases the upper half?
    Not the squeezie thingy (rev. camera area) mechanism in the upper 1/2 which I saw on a Russian site for $24.
    Or is it install an emergency release cable. Or both.
    Just a note that may be of interest. When I retrofitted my reversing camera and replaced the "squeezie thing" (this loom also includes wiring for the reversing camera and number plate light) the part number was updated to LR071911 (replacing LR015458) and the reason listed was some issues with moisture getting into the switch / corroding wires... I have a vague recollection that this applied only for certain models though. (up to MY14 maybe) I'll try to find the bulletin. Edit - found it - attached below.

    David
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by l00kin4; 4th May 2016 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Found the parts update
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
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    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  7. #17
    LRD414's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapelaw View Post
    ..... can you clarify that they/I need to repair or is it replace the actuator mechanism in the lower half that unlatches/releases the upper half?
    Not the squeezie thingy (rev. camera area) mechanism in the upper 1/2 which I saw on a Russian site for $24.
    Or is it install an emergency release cable. Or both.....
    Well that depends on what symptoms you have ....

    You initially mentioned "same problem" as Mario (the OP).
    His issue is with the lower tailgate actuator that is driven by the square button in the lower tailgate.
    Meaning the lower tailgate doesn't always open first go.

    Alternatively, the upper liftgate actuator "lives" in the lower tailgate and is driven by the handle button in the upper liftgate.
    When the actuator or its cable fails you need to access the lower tailgate to replace/repair.
    Upper liftgate not opening is the most common problem and the one for which an emergency release cable can be beneficial.

    <This thread> has good details for the upper liftgate actuator issue.
    I'm not aware of a thread/details for the lower tailgate actuator but access to it would be similar to that described in the linked thread because they both "live" in the lower tailgate.

    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapelaw View Post
    Thanks vasculardoc, can you clarify that they/I need to repair or is it replace the actuator mechanism in the lower half that unlatches/releases the upper half?
    Not the squeezie thingy (rev. camera area) mechanism in the upper 1/2 which I saw on a Russian site for $24.

    Or is it install an emergency release cable. Or both.
    I'm actually born-n-bred from there, we were living in the peewee camp mess house out at east point till I was 2/3 then moved to nightcliff, I believe the tin shack/house is one of the oldest houses up there, don't get back often! hope to take the family up there in the next couple of years.
    It is the actuator in the lower tailgate. The squeezy button is just a button that makes a solenoid work and pull the cable, the cable comes loose from or breaks the actuator in the lower tail gate.


    This is a good explanatory video....

    How To Access Lower Tailgate Actuator Cable On LR3

    and this is the LR TSB.....

    [ame]http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/13978/Liftgate%20Latch%20Diagnostics.pdf[/ame]

    Kudos to Disco3 and Roverparts for good explanatory pages :-)

  9. #19
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    Hi All,
    Where is the best place to buy a new actuator for the upper tailgate. Mine has started playing up. I rigged up a temporary manual unlock cable today, but would like to fix it properly.
    thanks
    LuckyLes

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