Update:
I can get SKF bearings for $200 plus delivery. Or NTN for an extra $20. are the NTN's worth the extra $20?
Cheers
Dan
Soooo.....
Just had the rear park brake shoes adjusted. Two or three weeks later there's a ticking nose at slow speed which becomes a slight grinding noise at speed - very slight, you have to try hard to hear it.
So i jack up the rear wheels and find that the rear right wheel wants to shimmy. Left is solid as a rock. Mechanic diagnosed it as the wheel bearing.
Firstly, is there anything that could have happened during the brake clean and adjustment that would have caused this? I can't think of anything as you leave the stub axle on.
Secondly, it's it worth doing both rears at once? Or should i just do one for now? I don't see an advantage other than having two new bearings - im not planning on a long trip soon, though we will probably head to Melbourne (from sydney) later in the year.
Thirdly, my mechanics supplier quoted $550 PER BEARING.i will be looking elsewhere for parts. Any tips are welcome.
Finally, what's involved in changing the bearing? Is it a press fit bearing? Could i do it at home with basic tools?
(I really need to get a service manual!)
Thanks for your help,
Dan
Update:
I can get SKF bearings for $200 plus delivery. Or NTN for an extra $20. are the NTN's worth the extra $20?
Cheers
Dan
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberI think you need a "special" tool to press out and pull in the drive shafts - Graeme may be on here with the tool that is required as he had to fabricate one for his L322 wheel bearing.
- Justin
Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
VK2HFJ
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						The front D4 hubs that I changed came off easily and without a puller. If it's so tight that it requires a puller then it's going to need the special LR tools to R&R the bearing assembly. My L322 has a larger diameter shaft that was very difficult to remove even with the equivalent LR puller that I made.
I would pay the extra $20 for an NTN bearing.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Thanks guys,
Graeme, any tips for the rear bearings? Or is it a similar hub design?
Edit: also, any opinion on getting both bearings done at once?
Cheers
Dan
Disco-Tastic
I did both R/H side bearings about 8 months ago.
Just had to do L/H rear.
So probably look at both.
It seems that the normal price for bearings fitted is over $500.
It does seem a lot, doesn't it?
Jonesfam
I had my right rear bearing done a couple of months ago. Mechanic charged Around $180 for the bearing. Fronts are an easy change out, but the rears need a press to do the job. Removing the hub and bearing th special tool would be very handy as once the whole hub assembly is removed you need to support the hub in a press in order to press the hub shaft/drive flange out of the bearing.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover...-/271949059132
Putting it all back in would be a hell of a lot easier in the press
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
Haha 500 bucks for the special tool. Thats not going to happen.
Graeme got any pics of the special tool you made up?
Cheers
Dan
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						hub puller.JPG
I made the top item and used a bolt from a harmonic balance puller for the 3rd item.
Sorry, the picture is too small to be of much use unless opened in another tab/window.
Edit: The top plate on my puller is 12mm thick and is now quite bowed and the 16mm bolt destroyed after a single use on my L322 - its driveshaft was very tight!
My puller is only to remove the flange, not the bearing.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Could look at it that way if you like. My view is to get a mechanic to do one side cost me over $800. I could buy the tool and the bearing and be around a similar price, but the next time I need to do the job then its a hell of a lot cheaper. I only got a mech to do my wheel bearing as I had no time due to moving house
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
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