Thread: Traxide battery installation advice

Ash, the Traxide tray is designed for an Optima Yellowtop battery. Not too many others fit and this one is Tim's recommendation.

With the sockets it's really just personal preference. I changed the left side socket to aux supply and added the right side one. This is how the Traxide kit I bought was designed. But your idea would be fine too.

Scott

Optima Yellow is what it was designed for.
Exide Orbital
Odyssey PC1500

I followed Tim's instructions which worked great. I connected the existing 12v socket to the aux battery and I added the new plug on the right hand side as per instructions. Contact Tim for place to get Optima Yellow Top. I got it cheaper than anyone in town could even buy it for themselves.

A point to note that wasn't mentioned in Tim's instruction re the new driver's side 12 v plug is that Tim lists 2 possible installation locations, either on the side so that it mirrors the passenger side plug OR in an upward or vertical orientation. This is what I did. By installing it vertically it means that plugs will be more stable and not impinge on load space BUT be aware that if you do the vertical install as I did the Cargo Privacy cover thingy will not be able to be fitted at the rear if you're using the 7 seats as the socket prevents the blind from clipping in. Something to be aware of.

Trevor

Ash - I fitted my outlets exactly as you have suggested. Still have the original socket on the left side connected to cranking battery - we use this for charging iPad etc when travelling. Have two new sockets connected to Traxide system on the right side - third battery is connected to one of these (and the fridge in turn is connected to the third battery). Spare outlet is for camping lights etc - or I can use it with an inverter for CPAP machine at night if my CPAP battery is flat.

I have used the Optima Yellowtop as per Tim's recommendation - has worked well for me.

I too have a Traxide system.
Installation instructions good. Take your time.
I went bit over the top and replaced the LHS storage compartment cover with a custom job, including 2 x 12V, 1 x Engel outlet, USB outlet, and an Anderson plug.I also added a 240V investor and outlet.
I left the std outlet as is.
After recent Desert trip, I didn't use the 240v or Andersen outlets at all.
I may remove these and add std outlet to circuit.
I ran fridge and external lights of system which worked well.

Originally Posted by rhinosm

After recent Desert trip, I didn't use the 240v or Andersen outlets at all.
I may remove these and add std outlet to circuit.
I ran fridge and external lights of system which worked well.

Out of interest did you get a full night from the fridge when using the lights as well?

I have the identical setup but seem to sometimes wake up to find the sc80 has cut the fridge out. I run an ageing waeco on low settings but i'm wondering if that might be the culprit.

Yes the fridge ran all night.
I have a older fridge, about 15 yrs, ran it on low settings.
Lights would run about 3 hours each night, over dinner and clean up.

Hi rhinosm, you should see at least 24 hours of operation for you fridge.

There can be a number of factors to cause it to shutdown earlier.

The state of charge of your batteries is a good place to start.

Also the age and condition of the batteries.

Another factor is how much driving you did before arriving at your campsite, plus, how you used your D4 in the days and weeks before you went on your trip.

Can you post up some of your driving conditions and we can see if we can improve your setup's operation, without changing it.