Thread: Hoses

Originally Posted by BMKal

Thanks Dave. Was thinking that myself. Have just pulled the Traxide battery / tray and headlight out to get a bit of access and I think I might be lucky this time. It appears to be the hose connection onto the bottle at the bottom nipple. Looks wet around the end of the hose, and I can see dripping coming from the bottom of the hose with a torch when the engine is running and for a short while after switching off. I'm hoping that the problem is just with the el-cheapo hose clamps that they use on just about everything these days. Will try replacing the clamp with a decent worm drive clamp (there's a box of them in the shed somewhere if I can find it). Hopefully, that should see the problem solved.

Just to be on the safe side in the future though - I might order a new bottle and keep it in the shed "just in case".

Turned out not to be the hose / clamp either. I unbolted the reservoir and released all the brackets, and as I was lifting it out to access the bottom hose, I noticed that the side of the bottle closest to the radiator was wet. Started the engine again, and observed coolant weeping from the side of the bleed screw (cheap plastic crap) on top of the tank, and running down the side of the tank to the outlet hose at the bottom (which I had thought was the culprit). When I went to check that this screw was tight with a screwdriver, coolant started spurting out as soon as I touched it, and the top of the screw simply fell off.





Guess I'm lucky to have found this in my shed at home and not half way down to Perth next week.

Anyway - a quick phone call to Steve at Lifestyle 4WD in Perth, and within less than an hour, he had a new complete reservoir express delivered to his workshop and placed it in the back of my son's ute, which was in his workshop having a new roller lock tonneau cover installed. And the price was way better than I expected - you can't get better service than that. Thanks Steve.

So - now to see if you can buy the bleeder screw as an individual item from Land Rover. If you can, I'll grab a couple - one to give me a complete spare reservoir / expansion tank, and another to reside in the glovebox as an emergency spare. Knowing my luck (and Land Rover) though, I'd hazard a bet that you have to buy the entire reservoir to get the bleeder screw. Steve informed me today that you cannot purchase the low fluid level sensor unit that is in the bottom of the reservoir as a separate part - you have to purchase the entire assembly.

You can buy both separately. The low coolant sensor is PCJ500030, and the bleed screw is LR055301.

Originally Posted by sheerluck

Admittedly, the body was off, the radiator, aircon condenser and intercooler were out, and there was no engine in the way.
Don't know what you're complaining about.

OK,so you have to do all that,just to change the hoses

Dunno what they were thinking

So you have got incontenece issues Brian,I spotted it in the bullbar thread

I replaced all the hoses in my D2,it was an expensive exercise and very hard on the knuckles.
I would buy the correct tool to do the clamps,long nose pliers and pinch pliers were my friends,but no where near ideal.I did use stainless worm drive clamps which added substantially to the bill.If you use them buy the flexible drive clamp tool the hoseclamp/radiator cap mob sell,awesome in those tight places.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

So you have got incontenece issues Brian,I spotted it in the bullbar thread

Careful Andrew - that wasn't coolant... it was the blood of the last person that insulted him!

Originally Posted by jonesy63

Careful Andrew - that wasn't coolant... it was the blood of the last person that insulted him!

Thats OK he sometimes turns up out of the blue here to get insulted
Goes OK for a silly olde farte
Andrew

Originally Posted by sheerluck

You can buy both separately. The low coolant sensor is PCJ500030, and the bleed screw is LR055301.

Thanks again Dave. Will order in a couple of the bleed screws and pick them up when I'm down in Perth in a couple of weeks. Any other "weak points" that you are aware of in the cooling system ??

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

So you have got incontenece issues Brian,I spotted it in the bullbar thread

I replaced all the hoses in my D2,it was an expensive exercise and very hard on the knuckles.
I would buy the correct tool to do the clamps,long nose pliers and pinch pliers were my friends,but no where near ideal.I did use stainless worm drive clamps which added substantially to the bill.If you use them buy the flexible drive clamp tool the hoseclamp/radiator cap mob sell,awesome in those tight places.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Thats OK he sometimes turns up out of the blue here to get insulted
Goes OK for a silly olde farte
Andrew

I have a box of assorted stainless worm drive hose clamps in the shed courtesy of a past job when I was often replacing hoses on certain mining / processing equipment. Have already picked out one just right for the bottom hose. These have hex heads, so a small socket with extension arm and ratchet drive will do the job nicely.

I'll be down in Perth on 21st / 22nd having an MRI scan and visiting a neurosurgeon. Was thinking of possibly dropping down your way on the way home on the 23rd (Saturday) if you're going to be at home then. Will probably have SWMBO with me, so might see if there's a motel or something reasonable down that way where we could stay the night, and then head back to Kalgoorlie on the Sunday. Haven't had any decent insults thrown at me for a while, so must be overdue for a visit.

Must be about time you had a decent vehicle with the words "Land Rover" on the bonnet parked in your driveway again, instead of one of these new hipster models with a trendy name badge.