Reply With QuoteHi Scott,
Just wondering if this is the compressor that has the bash plate covering it as well, which I'm guessing means removing that first (?)
Super Moderator
SubscriberIt is worth removing your suspension compressor cover to check for dirt/sand/sludge.
This is what mine looked like after a recent trip that included some muddy bog holes.
And this is what it should look like:
The yellow stuff is foam attached to the plastic cover and tends to hold on to dirt, so needs a good flush.
The cover is simple to remove, three screws (10mm socket) and approx 6 plastic clips.
The clips join the lower plastic cover to the upper plastic cover that remains in place and are a similar style to the ones on the battery compartment lid.
Once you've removed the screws and opened all plastic clips the cover just drops off.
Two of the plastic clips are visible towards the top of the photo below, showing the cover still on the vehicle:
There is an "L" shaped steel bracket supporting the compressor's three vibration mounts that is visible with the cover removed.
You may find dirt/mud/sand accumulated on the horizontal part of the bracket.
Bracket by itself (doesn't need removal for cleaning).
Too much dirt may inhibit the mounts and cause overheating issues, so a bit of preventative maintenance is well worth it I think.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
OldBushie
Hi Scott,
Just wondering if this is the compressor that has the bash plate covering it as well, which I'm guessing means removing that first (?)
Super Moderator
SubscriberYes, if you have an aftermarket guard fitted.Originally Posted by Chops
There is no factory bash plate over the compressor, just the plastic case.
This is why a compressor bash plate is the first one to get in my opinion.
And one that is reasonably easy to remove.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
OldBushie
Already ordered
Just to add to what you've said Scott, if you leave the water and stuff inside the cover, then that foam starts to rot. As soon as it starts to rot, it falls on top of the compressor. Then the compressor will start getting hot pretty quick, and will reduce its lifespan.
Master
Took Scott's advice and this is what was in the cover. Also I thought I would not need a protection plate but after seeing the damage I'll be ordering a GOE one from Gordon.
Sent from my GT-N5120 using AULRO mobile app
Master
Here's a question.
Does the cover actually need to stay when a bash plate has been installed?
Ron
Ron
2013 D4 SDV6 SE
Yes it does Ron.
Master
SubscriberI have only recently bought my D4 and firstly I would like to say what a fantastic resource these threads of Scott’s are. I’m really impressed with the fantastic and clear way he articulates what he has done and the process he decided on.
Today i have fitted my Llams kit using some of his tips (along with the instructions) and it’s worked out well.
Now to the the point of my post - I see it is said not to remove the original factory compressor cover when fitting an aftermarket one. I have on order an APT cover and side steps/rock sliders and this question niggles in my mind.
It seems to me that in the interest of minimising the possibility of the compressor overheating it would be wise to remove the original factory cover. I can also see that the foam inside the cover supports the cables and lines to the compressor and I think that’s important.
Is there something else I haven’t thought of or should know? I’m really keen to understand this and do what is appropriate.
Cheers,
David
TopicToaster
SubscriberMy opinion based on nothing but that. Removing it will increase the noise exponentially. It’s designed to get hot. You GENERALLY don’t use if for long stints so they rarely overheat. When you’re calibrating the suspension it’s a pain in the arse because the up down does overheat it quickly.
Overall there’s really no need under normal usage. Damage to pipes and wires? Probably not but your thoughts are sound on that front.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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