Thread: Check the suspension compressor cover

Originally Posted by Odysseyman

I can also see that the foam inside the cover supports the cables and lines to the compressor and I think that’s important.

Here's my take; the factory cover does support and protect the various cables and hoses so is worth keeping in place.
If it was removed you would still get rocks/sticks inside the protection plate and these could then damage the cables, etc.
So it is better to retain the foam lined cover but keep it clean, then you will have protection, support and no overheating.

Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by Ozzy119

Had a compressor failure, so now have after market, which is a lower profile.

What aftermarket compressor did you fit - original are either AMK or Hitachi and the only aftermarket that I was aware of is a Dunlop which is a Hitachi knock off?

Garry

Originally Posted by LRD414

Here's my take; the factory cover does support and protect the various cables and hoses so is worth keeping in place.
If it was removed you would still get rocks/sticks inside the protection plate and these could then damage the cables, etc.
So it is better to retain the foam lined cover but keep it clean, then you will have protection, support and no overheating.

Cheers,
Scott

yes, I have come to that conclusion too, thanks Scott. It probably also affords some sound deadening and reduces vibration, so will definitely be left on.

Cheers
David

Originally Posted by garrycol

What aftermarket compressor did you fit - original are either AMK or Hitachi and the only aftermarket that I was aware of is a Dunlop which is a Hitachi knock off?

Garry

Hi Garry,

My use of 'after marked' was not correct. I just meant the factory fitted one needed replacing. My 2010 unit was replaced with an AMK, but the plastic guard is def a bit bigger and my mechanic was aware that the GOE guard would no longer fit. So I never actually bothered to check, as i could see the size difference in the plastic guard as soon as i got the car back.

I found the GOE guard didn’t fit the AMK on mine (MY14) and had to cut away part of the rear of the guard to avoid the clash.
Others have had the same issue and modified the plate or fiddled the fit until it just missed hitting the plastic cover.
I replaced it with an APT guard soon after, which I think is a better design for strength, fit and extent of protection (it includes frontal protection).

When I cleaned the mud out of my cover, I just tore out the foam sound deadening and binned it. It runs much cooler now. A couple of 20mm holes witht he holesaw in strategic locations has cured many issues for me. It even drains the water and muck now. Cycling the motor on the over temperature cut out is not a "normal" situation for any electric motor - it buggers the winding insulation and shortens life. All in the name of "silence"?
It's not that noisy and not for that long. I'm happy with my mod.
Matti

Originally Posted by LRD414

I found the GOE guard didn’t fit the AMK on mine (MY14) and had to cut away part of the rear of the guard to avoid the clash.
Others have had the same issue and modified the plate or fiddled the fit until it just missed hitting the plastic cover.
I replaced it with an APT guard soon after, which I think is a better design for strength, fit and extent of protection (it includes frontal protection).

Yep - I have the GOE guard on my D3 and thought it "lacked" frontal protection...so it's one of the "things" I'm replacing soon...
cheers

Originally Posted by LRD414

I replaced it with an APT guard soon after, which I think is a better design for strength, fit and extent of protection (it includes frontal protection).

Hi Scott,

I like the look of the APT compressor guard and sliders, were the sliders easy to fit? Do the factory mudguards still fit or is it one or the other?

These are on my list as well.

Some tips would be appreciated

cheers,

Eric