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Thread: solar battery maintenance

  1. #31
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    The diode in the picture is connected as a bypass diode. If you have multiple panels connected in series with one in shade, that diode will allow full current to bypass that panel. Without it, if you shade one cell in a multiple panel series connected system, the current of the whole system drops. With the bypass diode, the system voltage will drop by the voltage of the panel that the diode is bypassing, but retain full current output. If you only have one panel in the system, with only one bypass diode on that panel, them that diode serves no purpose. If you directly connect a panel to a battery in reverse polarity, the bypass diode will present a short circuit.

    Aaron

  2. #32
    DiscoMick Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Not quite, thats just how the rough numbers worked out in this case. When people want me to spec up a stay in place system theres a lot more questions and real life testing done to confirm numbers because no one runs "just a fridge" everyone has a lot of other little things that add up over time.

    For the numbers I threw down for you I basically took the numbers for my system, doubled the fridge draw left the misc values totaled them then doubled it for the solar watts needed and rounded up to the next convenient panel size. I then doubled the aux battery capacity to deal with the extra fridge over night. What should get you though on that is the doubling of the misc values + the round up factor combined with the benefits of the bigger batteries and the traxide. IT should get you to about 7 maybe 8 days but you'll still wind up against batteries in a lower state of charge than when you started.

    For the stay and live on solar deal you need (roughly) 3 times the amount of draw you expect the system to deal with as your charge ability and thats only properly viable while everything is 100% in reality i'd spec up nearer to 4 times.

    With that you're running essentially the same system I am, with just a single engle and no accessory load that will just about keep you infront indefinately but add some sub optimal charging factors, some lights, a radio, charge a phone and the laptop and you're behind. I think that this will get you about 3 days in location but the battery will be drained on day 3 and you'll need to move on to charge the batter(ies). The traxide will give you a little more by the magic it does But I dont have one fitted because of a very special way I need to be able to abuse my setup that the traxide system was never intended to deal with (jump starting 24V out of a 12V system and welding off the batteries)


    The configuration and build sequence you really want here is a little different..

    Fit the 80w panel to the vehicle, add its regulator and couple it to the main batery. Your now set to go with a single fridge for about 3 days. Your system, charge wise wont be any better than mine but you have the advantage of the traxide which in terms of real life will put you about 30% ahead of how my setup works. maybe more if you use better batteries, panels and regulators. I've put this first as it sounds like you already have all of this gear.

    next get yourself the upgraded traxide you wont see an obvious and immediate change to how your system works but trust me for the next bit you will.

    then get yourself a second panel set or array when you start hooking up the next fridge/freezer. This set you hook up to your aux battery or the anderson plug with a dedicated regulator.

    This gives you the most cost effective and flexible setup. youve got a panel set on the vehicle that looks after the main battery all the time and via the magic of the traxide the aux battery as well when the main battery is mostly charged. (which means you're not letting solar power goto nowhere when the battery is charged)

    When you expand you have a second complete solar system that is not anchored to the vehicle so you can use it elsewhere or position it else where and with the newer traxide looking after things if you have to park the vehicle in the shade you can use the solar or any other charger to get all the batteries back up. IF you want you can even remove the second (third) battery and mount it to the second solar system to look after one of the fridges if you need the space in the vehicle.

    if your parking it all up you can put the small maintenance panel onto the system anywhere and it will look after everything. (with the early traxide you must connect to the main battery with the later any will work)
    Our system is similar.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    multiple panels connected in series with one in shade...
    stuck in a parallel world...
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  4. #34
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    Connect them in series, up to the maximum input voltage of your regulator. You will get higher charge current in overcast conditions. If you run two 19V panels in parallel (common camping / folding system) and a cloud comes, it may drop to 10V. No charge will happen. If you run two 19V panels in series you get 38V in sun. It may drop to 20V under cloud. This will still charge a 12V system. To get the benefits of this system, you need a proper MPPT regulator. The E-Bay $30 MPPT regulators are not real MPPT.

    Aaron

  5. #35
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    All solar panels should have a blocking diodes on the output of the leads coming from the panel's connection point.

    This is not to protect the solar panel, it is there to stop the battery from discharging back through the panel at night.

    In Magnet's case, the diode is necessary if he is not intending to fit a solar reg.

    With a single solar panel connected to a solar regulator, then a diode may not be necessary, but with parallel panels feeding one regulator, then as described earlier by Graeme, a blocking diode is needed on each panel.

  6. #36
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    Any loss through the lack of a blocking diode on the non-performing panel on my van's roof whilst in the shed is inconsequential as the regulator gets to its 13.8 float voltage within a day after a few weeks without the portable panels connected. I only feed the portable panels into the van's regulator because the regulator on the portable panel conflicts with the van's good controller and pushes voltage over 15V.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    The diode in the picture is connected as a bypass diode. If you have multiple panels connected in series with one in shade, that diode will allow full current to bypass that panel. Without it, if you shade one cell in a multiple panel series connected system, the current of the whole system drops. With the bypass diode, the system voltage will drop by the voltage of the panel that the diode is bypassing, but retain full current output. If you only have one panel in the system, with only one bypass diode on that panel, them that diode serves no purpose. If you directly connect a panel to a battery in reverse polarity, the bypass diode will present a short circuit.

    Aaron
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    Connect them in series, up to the maximum input voltage of your regulator. You will get higher charge current in overcast conditions. If you run two 19V panels in parallel (common camping / folding system) and a cloud comes, it may drop to 10V. No charge will happen. If you run two 19V panels in series you get 38V in sun. It may drop to 20V under cloud. This will still charge a 12V system. To get the benefits of this system, you need a proper MPPT regulator. The E-Bay $30 MPPT regulators are not real MPPT.

    Aaron
    Arrons info is accurate and on the money. Heres how it ties into what Im proposign for you.

    set up your vehicle up to and including installing the newer traxide.

    When you go to get the second panel system you need to set it up as per Aarons second post with a bypass (I called it a shunt diode) and a regulator that is an MPPT capable of delivering a correct charge pattern for a 12v (nominal) system from up to whatever the maximum series voltage of all the panels you want to use adds up to +10% (a 36v array should be run from a system capable of handling 40v+)

    As per Aarons first quoted post most folding systems are in parallel and they drop output voltage fast if shaded, with the voltage dropping while they are capable of pushing some amps theres not enough potential difference to let it happen. Putting the panels in series will maximise the voltage difference and provide the best use of the available amps.

    (100000A at 10V will not charge a 12V battery the battery has more volts in it than the supply. 19v at .05 a will eventually charge a 12v battery)
    Dave

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  8. #38
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    If you plan to buy one panel now and more later to connect in series, make sure they have the same current rating. Voltage is not important.

    Aaron

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Any loss through the lack of a blocking diode on the non-performing panel on my van's roof whilst in the shed is inconsequential as the regulator gets to its 13.8 float voltage within a day after a few weeks without the portable panels connected.
    The regulator that you are feeding the solar power through should be performing the job of the blocking diode.

    Aaron

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    If you plan to buy one panel now and more later to connect in series, make sure they have the same current rating. Voltage is not important.

    Aaron
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    The regulator that you are feeding the solar power through should be performing the job of the blocking diode.

    Aaron
    Just to add a little more detail, Aaron is correct but not quite for the setup I am advising.

    The basics,
    If you are stringing all the panels together on the same regulator in series then they have to be the same current rating. (Amax) If you are setting up in parallel then they should all be the same voltage rating (Vmax)


    if you are setting up as I am advising with 2 regulators on 2 different batteries then the panels need only be the same for the configuration on each regulator.

    with a single 80w panel on a regulator hooked up to you cranking battery with a single 160w hooked up on your aux battery on a seperate regulator then you dont have to worry about diodes. MPPT regulators stop back feeding and you dont have to worry about bypassing or shunting past shaded panels as you only have one panel.


    If you get to 160w by having 2 80w panels on one regulator then you will need to fit a diode to each panel. If you go in series you should have a bypass or shunt diode (same thing different name) if you go in parallel then each panel should have a blocking diode.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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