URGENT: tailgate problem

**kenl** · 15th January 2017, 12:04 AM

The actuator does get tired, like all of the door actuators in the car.

There is a tiny el cheepo electric motor that gets all guncked up around the brushes and causes it to slow down to the point that it stops working.

On my passenger side door actuator I pulled it apart and cleaned the brushes and it hasn't missed a beat in the three years since, there is a post on the disco3 site that showed me this.

The tailgate actuator can't be disassembled so easily, but I believe it can be cleaned if you want to by drilling a hole in the body of the actuator and spraying contact cleaner through it. I did mention it in a thread I started last year and would love for someone to give it a go just to see if it works?

**AndrewM** · 17th January 2017, 03:15 PM

Originally Posted by LRD414

It is far easier to operate the latch by pulling the wire with the trim off so I would be taking the trim off while it's working before you get home and the deal with it properly later.
Taking the trim off with lower tailgate open is 100x easier than when it's stuck closed.

Scott

I agree with Scott 100%. The cable broke near the actuator in my D3 and I had to break into the lower flap from inside the luggage space. I installed an emergency release using an old bicycle brake cable running to just behind the RH passenger door. I was just thankful the drawers and fridge were not on board, otherwise I'd still be there. So definitely leave yourself the ability to have good access to the inside of the lower panel until you get a proper emergency release installed. This should really be a high priority mod as we seems to hear about it just a little too often - it's on my list for the D4.

**irondoc** · 20th January 2017, 08:23 AM

Thanks for all your replies, I

I pulled all the trim off while I still had access to the rear, so it was an easy job. I still can't work out why it failed though, as everything looks like it is working, it is just a tiny bit slow. My one thought is that the door open sensor at thee back might have been malfunctionng also...

anyway, I have ordered a new latch and actuator to replace it and be sure, and will put an emergency release on the new one.

It has been a good exercise as I understand how it works now.

Cheers
Lucas

**LRD414** · 20th January 2017, 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by irondoc

My one thought is that the door open sensor at thee back might have been malfunctionng also...

This theory would be proven if the actuation works ok using the key fob because that's not relying on the microswitch in the tailgate handle to operate the actuator.
And possibly the extra voltage available with engine running may be making a difference if the actuator is tired.

Originally Posted by irondoc

.... and will put an emergency release on the new one.....

Lucas, you're probably all over it but I wrote up a little thing in this thread for the manual release cable using a bike cable that both James and I have done and are very happy with:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disc...ease-d3-6.html

Cheers,
Scott

**speleomike** · 13th August 2018, 10:17 PM

Hi all

Just went through part of this procedure tonight :-) Occasionally had the tailgate click, but not unlatch but after a few tries it opened. Yesterday I was putting on an AULRO sticker on the tailgate and once that was stuck on, the tailgate would not open. Go figure :-)

I had been following and saving the many many threads on here and DISCO3.CO.UK - Index about this problem. Fortunately for me pushing out from the inside while Jill pushed the outside button opened the tailgate. So tonight, whilst we had it open, I removed the internal rear trim to expose the latch and the cable. Took about 1 hour to get all the trim and bits off. Now I can pull the wire cable from the inside when needed.

Next will be to rig up one of the manual pull modifications that have been suggested.

Mike
I really do dig that sig that a few members have referred to; "Land Rover; making mechanics out of motorists for nearly seventy years...".

**l00kin4** · 14th August 2018, 08:04 AM

Scott's excellent manual for this mod is here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...al-release.pdf

I made a couple of small mods to the mod listed here: Scott's Discovery 4

One very minor correction too - the pic for the hole position on page 7 should be as per this pic below

David

**Odysseyman** · 14th August 2018, 03:56 PM

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Lucas.
Once you repair it you need to get rid of the RP7,it will attract dust and make it worse.Dust could well be the problem.
You need to get a dry film lube.Sillycum or graphite are the go.They are available in a spray,the graphite spray wont be as suitable as its like a black or grey spraypaint(more used in heavy duty applications).Graphite powder is OK,but may not remain where you need it.The silicone spray is clear.
Andrew

i wouldn’t use silicone spray either, like all the others, WD40, Inox, RP7 et al, it will also attract dust eventually. Get yourself a can of Teflon spray from one of the Supercheap/Repco stores and use that.
Cheers
David

**Tankmat** · 18th August 2018, 11:23 PM

Originally Posted by l00kin4

Scott's excellent manual for this mod is here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...al-release.pdf

I made a couple of small mods to the mod listed here: Scott's Discovery 4

One very minor correction too - the pic for the hole position on page 7 should be as per this pic below

David

David your link to the additional mods is broken, this should work
Scott's Discovery 4

Nice work by the way

Dean

**speleomike** · 20th August 2018, 08:58 PM

Hi all

A few posts ago I mentioned that I've got the same problem on my D4 tailgate. Last week took off the trim and am currently opening the tailgate by putting my hand in from the inside and pulling the cable. The wife does not seem to want to do that. Anyways had to wait till I got a T30 Torx screwdriver to remove the cable mechanism fully.

Tonight I pulled out the mechanism. It's working but the actuator assembly lacks enthusiasm. When pushing the open button on the upper tailgate, the cable pulls in about 1/4 inch. It really needs to pull in 1/2 inch to open the latch. Haven't yet checked the voltage or current drawn but prob would not be much use as I have no idea what it should be pulling or what voltage drop it would normally cause. So I think I need to replace the actuator assembly (part # 999840).

Scott's writeup is ace and the addendum to it. Have printed it off to refer to while working on the tailgate.

Mike