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Thread: Bridgestone D697 air pressure

  1. #21
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    Fully loaded near GWM/axle weight limit with 160 kg ball weight towing approx 1500kg ultimate camper on bitumen on very hot days, rear 43 and front always 2 psi less 41 max, when braking you want max tyre displacement on the road. I have checked on extreme heat tyre pressure rises 3-4 psi with hot tyres, October 2015 through Windorah at 48 degrees in shade, pressure went as high as 49-50 psi rear.

    offroad, rear 34 front 32 limit 80-85km/hr, upper 90. With extreme rocky section, like the strezlecki, I would go down to 28 rear and 26 front and limit speed to 65-70km/hr.

    About to head north to the Savannah way and Kimberley, Will be putting the D697 through it's paces on Compomotive 18" rims.

    ignore placard due to heavy modified D4, extra weight front and rear and now with Longranger tank. Highway weekend not heavily loaded 40psi less 2 front.

    This time I will also be taking a Fluke temp gun to monitor tyre pressure for my own interest.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chops View Post
    You could always fill them with nitrogen,,, carry a bottle with you for when you have to air down,,, then you can fill them up again
    paying for Nitrogen filled tyres is the ULTIMATE scam.

    check this out for some fun-facts Top 10 reasons not to put nitrogen in your tyres - YouTube

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianElloy View Post
    paying for Nitrogen filled tyres is the ULTIMATE scam.

    check this out for some fun-facts Top 10 reasons not to put nitrogen in your tyres - YouTube
    Disagree, for people who can never be bothered checking their pressures, worth every cent. Especially if the car's not driven often. Our cars(not the 4x4) run nitrogen and after 6 months, exact same pressure.

    Most shops will chuck it in for $10 for all 4. Vs. $200 per front tyre that's worn down on the edge too far before noticed.

    If you regularly check pressures though, yes, waste of money, but who has time for that.

    Waste of money for 4x4 as constantly airing down anyway..

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Disagree, for people who can never be bothered checking their pressures, worth every cent.
    disagree with your disagreement .... did you even check out the video link? there are scientific (physics related) reasons why its a scam.

    but go for it dude - its your money!

  5. #25
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    I tend to agree with Russ on this. Your "scientific" stuff might be there to prove otherwise, but I can tell you through experience that it works.
    Women don't tend to check anything on a car very well, and so my sister started running it, it ultimately, it's saved her a small fortune. She drives a crappy road five days a week, (about 70k+ a day), the car feels better on the road, and she's stopped going through as many sets of tires.

  6. #26
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    They can scientifically prove all they like. Real world tests are saving people thousands of dollars.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by VK3GJM View Post
    Fully loaded near GWM/axle weight limit with 160 kg ball weight towing approx 1500kg ultimate camper on bitumen on very hot days, rear 43 and front always 2 psi less 41 max, when braking you want max tyre displacement on the road. I have checked on extreme heat tyre pressure rises 3-4 psi with hot tyres, October 2015 through Windorah at 48 degrees in shade, pressure went as high as 49-50 psi rear.

    offroad, rear 34 front 32 limit 80-85km/hr, upper 90. With extreme rocky section, like the strezlecki, I would go down to 28 rear and 26 front and limit speed to 65-70km/hr.

    About to head north to the Savannah way and Kimberley, Will be putting the D697 through it's paces on Compomotive 18" rims.

    ignore placard due to heavy modified D4, extra weight front and rear and now with Longranger tank. Highway weekend not heavily loaded 40psi less 2 front.

    This time I will also be taking a Fluke temp gun to monitor tyre pressure for my own interest.
    I followed your advice on air pressures regarding front and rear difference and i ran similar pressures trip wide with great results! Perfectly even wear, no punctures, next to no chipping.

    Thanks again.

    Couldn't be more impressed with the 697s, I've put them through hell and back over the last 6 weeks and you wouldn't even be able to tell they've left the tarmac. The LT version especially has very strong sidewalls (this one in the photo in particular was parked up with the sidewall squeezed up against a large rock last week, not to mention the rocky 5 minute long river crossing at El Questro.

    Not even the sharp iron ore rocks through the Hamersley ranges and Wittenoom could make a dent.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Disagree, for people who can never be bothered checking their pressures, worth every cent. Especially if the car's not driven often. Our cars(not the 4x4) run nitrogen and after 6 months, exact same pressure.

    Most shops will chuck it in for $10 for all 4. Vs. $200 per front tyre that's worn down on the edge too far before noticed.

    If you regularly check pressures though, yes, waste of money, but who has time for that.

    Waste of money for 4x4 as constantly airing down anyway..

    Dry air works the same as dry nitrogen, and FWIW I've carried stocks of nitrogen for years, always carried at least one D size bottle in the back of the Defender as I used it for work and the odd puncture. BTW, the nitro I use is high purity, not industrial, so has even less moisture than the industrial gas.
    If an air compressor is regularly blown down and has a decent water separator fitted air and temp isn't an issue, and there is only about 2% difference in particle size, so permeation isn't an issue either.
    On race cars we ran dry air, take the moisture out of air and pressures stay relatively stable. Pressure/temp climb is identical to nitro.

  9. #29
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    This is what I ended up with seeing as it was all about tyre pressure.

    36psi front
    38psi rear
    For all of the Tanami as it was good conditions. 80-90 kmh

    38psi front
    42 psi rear
    For all sealed roads. 110kmh

    26PSI Front
    30PSI Rear
    For the Northern end of GRR right through to Mitchell Falls. Mostly 70kmh

    Back to 36 PSI Front and 40PSI rear to finish Mt. Barnett onwards on the Gibb as the roads pretty good upped the speed a little to 80-90kmh

    Adjusted the pressures to suit the road conditions and speed possible. Never went above 80kmh with pressures down low.

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