Thread: D3 Stuck in Hobart - Can anyone help?

Originally Posted by justinc

Its going to be a fun ride... i will be stripping the top of the engine back to basics to allow access for our favourite and very talented thread repair specialist, Chris from Southern Thread Repairs. He is mobile and unafraid to tackle challenging jobs like this☺... then of course I'll have to go and put it all back together again...😢😢

Jc

A similar sort of guy was required to remove the broken stainless steel exhaust manifold stud when they replaced the turbos on my car with body on. I didn't know they existed but a great resource to have. I don't know why anyone would willingly do such a job though!

Originally Posted by BobD

A similar sort of guy was required to remove the broken stainless steel exhaust manifold stud when they replaced the turbos on my car with body on. I didn't know they existed but a great resource to have. I don't know why anyone would willingly do such a job though!

Yes he is a special kind of guy!😮. I've replaced those stainless studs with the body OFF and they were hard enough...😯😯😯

We only have one local mobile guy and he does a good job but only does the job if there unhindered access. He explained that the risks for something going wrong in tight spots is considerable and he would have to make good any extra damage caused - sort of understand but when Mr Murphy calls you can expect the job to be in the tightest spots possible.

To the topic of the thread, if someone managed to get the torque on the belt tensioner wrong when changing the belt with the engine out of the car, how hard is it to get the torque right on the tensioner with engine in the car and working by feel with mirrors while lying flat on top of the engine.

I suppose Justin is an expert on this

garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

We only have one local mobile guy and he does a good job but only does the job if there unhindered access. He explained that the risks for something going wrong in tight spots is considerable and he would have to make good any extra damage caused - sort of understand but when Mr Murphy calls you can expect the job to be in the tightest spots possible.

To the topic of the thread, if someone managed to get the torque on the belt tensioner wrong when changing the belt with the engine out of the car, how hard is it to get the torque right on the tensioner with engine in the car and working by feel with mirrors while lying flat on top of the engine.

I suppose Justin is an expert on this

garry

I have done enough of them!!😮😮😮.

I use a 10mm ratchet ring spanner to undo and do up this 8mm bolt. One hand tension on a 100mm long spanner is pretty well all that is required. Interestingly the instructions call for replacement of that bolt HOWEVER the originally fitted one seems of higher quality than the one supplied with genuine or Dayco kits. ( incidentally Dayco IS genuine) I have been checking them for signs of elongation and if ok reusing the original bolt. I would most likely replace it thpugh after the second belt change but I'll have to hunt down a suitable quality alternative when it comes time to do one.

Jc

Just interested as I am trying to physch myself up to do this on my car - not looking forward at all - I have the Dayco kit ready to go.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Just interested as I am trying to physch myself up to do this on my car - not looking forward at all - I have the Dayco kit ready to go.

You're welcome to ask any questions when it comes time to do it Gary.

Jc

I drove through Kingston a few weeks ago in my V8 D4 and didn't realise that is where you reside. Great to now that there are still mechanics out there who actually know what they are doing with these vehicles.

Originally Posted by carlschmid2002

I drove through Kingston a few weeks ago in my V8 D4 and didn't realise that is where you reside. Great to now that there are still mechanics out there who actually know what they are doing with these vehicles.

😮 I'm still learning everyday! They are a complex beast for sure....

Jc