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Thread: D4 CV Joint Failure ????

  1. #41
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post


    Looks to me like this feature is only available for six speeds anyway, so may be irrelevant to Andrew.

    It is there for 8 speeds. The manual must be out of date, as I did it on my father's L322
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

  2. #42
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    Mar 2007
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    Thanks again for everyone's help on this. It would appear that the problem is now fixed, and I may have saved myself quite a few dollars in transporting the vehicle to Perth and having it repaired there.

    The Gap IID tool has definitely paid for itself (as has the D4 workshop manual that I bought from Dave quite some time ago). Having a son who is a diesel fitter / mechanic and who is not afraid to pull things apart / play with settings / use diagnostic tools etc is also a big help.

    So, today we had the vehicle up in the air. Checked all electrical connections around the transfer case and could see no sign of water ingress / dirty terminals / corrosion anywhere. In fact, for a vehicle with over 120,000km on the clock, the whole transfer case area still looks like brand new. Checked transfer case oil level and condition - level was exactly where it should be and the oil looked very clean and like "new". No sign at all of water in the oil.

    Discovered that with the engine off, you could turn the front prop shaft about a quarter of a turn independently of the rear prop shaft, which suggested that the centre diff was not "locked" with the engine turned off. As soon as engine was started, you could hear a distinctive "clunk" from under the vehicle which turned out to be the transfer case clutch solenoid activating / engaging (I could not hear this from inside the vehicle). As soon as this happened, the centre diff was locked, even though not showing this on the main screen display or anywhere else. You could not turn the front prop shaft at all once this clutch had engaged. Shut off the engine, and shortly afterwards, could hear a very distinctive "clunk" from under the vehicle (I had noticed this "new" sound over the past few days). This was the clutch solenoid de-activating / disengaging. As soon as this had happened, you could again turn the front prop shaft about a quarter of a turn independently of the rear shaft.

    So - pulled the electrical connection from the clutch solenoid and started the engine - the solenoid did not activate and you could still turn the front prop shaft. Lowered the vehicle down off the axle stands and took it for a test drive. No more shuddering / grabbing / scary noises. Only a "Gearbox Fault" showing on the dash. Worst case scenario - I could drive the vehicle down to Perth like this if necessary, with no centre diff lock available - but this would only be a last resort.

    Next, re-connected the electrical connection to the clutch solenoid, plugged in the Gap IID tool, checked all faults and cleared them, then ran both the Transfer Case Clutch Calibration and the Position or Range Sensor Calibration routines as per the instructions in the Gap IID manual. Took vehicle for a test drive and everything working as it should be. Stuck it into low range / rock crawl, observed indication on dash screen that centre diff was "locked", drove vehicle in a tight circle and observed indication of centre diff locking and unlocking as it should do when diff "wind-up" occurred. Then returned all settings to "normal" and observed on screen that centre diff had unlocked. Another test drive to confirm that everything is working as it should be - and I am now sitting down relaxing and enjoying a scotch and dry .................

    So it appears that something was sending a signal to the clutch as soon as the engine started, and the centre diff lock was engaging. When the engine was switched off, the diff lock would dis-engage. Exactly what was causing this signal to be sent to the clutch solenoid is a mystery, but I can only assume that the Position or Range Sensor had somehow gone out of calibration and was causing the problem. What caused this to happen is anybody's guess - but at least it's comforting to know that with the Gap IID tool, the workshop manual and the assistance of those with knowledge on here, it's possible to fix these things yourself. especially when the closest dealership or independent workshop I would trust with the vehicle is over 600km away.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  3. #43
    Join Date
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    Great outcome Brian.... nice to hear it's fixed.
    Mark

    Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most

    2015 TDV6 D4.... the latest project... Llams, Traxide, Icom 455, Tuffant Kimberleys and Mofos.... so far.
    2012 SDV6 SE D4 with some stuff... gone...
    2003 D2a TD5...gone...
    2000 D2 V8...gone...
    https://bymark.photography


  4. #44
    Ean Austral Guest
    Great to hear and also a good plug for the Gap llD tool as well.


    Will put that one in the memory back for future reference just in case.


    Cheers Ean

  5. #45
    Join Date
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    Gap add features such as this when brought to their attention the benefits of people being able to fix simple malfunctions when away from dealers. The TC and e-diff calibrations are great examples of functions added by request.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  6. #46
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    good stuff and well done
    bit partial to scotch n dry myself

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    So it appears that something was sending a signal to the clutch as soon as the engine started, and the centre diff lock was engaging. When the engine was switched off, the diff lock would dis-engage. Exactly what was causing this signal to be sent to the clutch solenoid is a mystery
    We know that e-diffs are pre-armed for take-off even though the diff lock symbol doesn't indicate it and it now seems that the centre diff is too, just that your one had become a little too ambitious.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    We know that e-diffs are pre-armed for take-off even though the diff lock symbol doesn't indicate it and it now seems that the centre diff is too, just that your one had become a little too ambitious.
    Yes, the centre diff is preloaded just like the e-diff is, I haven't logged it, but it is quite similar in how it works to the e-diff
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

  9. #49
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    All's well that ends well!

    Well, I'm glad you've managed to work it out, and at (reasonably) low cost!

    I would've loved to have this knowledge (and the iidtool) when I was stuck at the tip of Cape York with the same symptoms. I'm almost certain that I had the exact same issue after the water crossing, that could've been fixed without replacing the transfer case!

    Thanks for sharing the journey/fix.

    Regards

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  10. #50
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    I think that your incident Rob was the catalyst for Gap to make the capability available for the TC and e-diff for even the newest vehicles rather than just the D3 TC that had recently been provided because old D3 TCs were getting rebuilt due to wear.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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