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Thread: Lower control arm bushes

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    You can see if you have a hydro Bush by laying behind the front wheel and taking a look...
    Hard to see a good side view?







  2. #52
    Tombie Guest
    Lemforder - note the Wave (visible on left in your first pic)


    Borg and Beck style - solid

  3. #53
    Tombie Guest
    Also note the steel profile in the centre.

  4. #54
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    I doff my cap to you sir. Lower control arm bushes

    So are Lemforder hydro original style?

  5. #55
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    I doff my cap to you sir. Lower control arm bushes

    So are Lemforder hydro original style?
    Yes they are. Original style and supplier to LR

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Balbarrup WA
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    Re: Replacing lower control arms/bushes

    Unless your workshop is jigged up to extract the old and re-fit the new bushes (which are pigs to get out and to get back correctly), I would suggest it is faster (and might be cheaper) to fit complete arms.
    Those bushes do not just press in and press out, they have to be attacked out and then pressed in, and need a specially made die to get them in properly.
    But your workshop might be set up to do them, so check.
    I've replaced mine 4 times in 450K, and the time I replaced just the bushes was way cheaper on parts, BUT, the biggest mess about compared to replacing whole lower arm.

    Whole arm also includes new ball joint, and you have to take the whole arm out to replace the bushes anyway, and you should put in new bolts to hold the lower arm in after you have R&R'd them.
    I keep a spare set of lower arms and bolts on standby.
    Bought a set last week with bolts (and 2 new drive shaft nuts) for $350 and about $120 freight, so anything under $500 for a pair of lower arms , mounting bolt set and 2 flange nuts,
    delivered, is value.
    The drive shaft nuts come in 1.5 and 2. thread pitch, and I think the key is your VIN number should guide parts seller on which shaft nut for your car. (There may be enough thread sticking past the nut for you to see the pitch.)

    My guess on to replace might be up 3 hours total for a good mechanic (could be 2 hours if they are on the ball), and a new wheel alignment.
    It usually takes me most of the day to R&R when I do it at home alone using a jack and stands. PM me is you want to know where to get the arms and bolts.
    vbrab


    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeis View Post
    Hey guys.

    My 2011 D4 is in the mechanic shop and he has confirmed the noise is the control arm bushes.

    I know this has been covered to death but the search doesn't seem to be working since the site upgrade.

    How much should I expect to pay for these to be fixed?
    Also, should I be replacing the whole arms and ball joint or just the bushes? The car has just hit 100,000km.

    Any advice is appreciated

    Thanks

  7. #57
    Tombie Guest
    Why are you taking axle nuts off? No need to get the arms out...

    The bushes are certainly easy with the correct press tool Lower control arm bushes doing it on vehicle is easy too.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Why are you taking axle nuts off? No need to get the arms out...
    Yes I saw a Britpart video posted recently showing how to replace the lower arms and there was no need to undo the hub nut.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #59
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    Aug 2015
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    Coolamon, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Why are you taking axle nuts off? No need to get the arms out...

    The bushes are certainly easy with the correct press tool Lower control arm bushes doing it on vehicle is easy too.
    Yes, I did mine on vehicle with just a generic press tool and it was still quite easy to do on vehicle, except the one bush they (LR dealer that replaced bushes under warranty) put some form of loctite on it. I also did front bushes at the same time - ball joints were still in good condition at the time so no need to replace.
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Yes I saw a Britpart video posted recently showing how to replace the lower arms and there was no need to undo the hub nut.
    The WSM tells you how to do it without removing axle nut. Mentioned this to someone the other day who was sceptical about it being possible, but followed the directions and he said it was fantastic that it worked.
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

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