Problem Charging Aux Batteries with Smart Charger

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Originally Posted by p38arover

I must admit I wasn't sure of the size of 8 B&S or 8 AWG so I did a bit of hunting around and found this page: Wire Gauge Comparison Chart

8 B&S/AWG is only 1/8" or 3.25mm diameter. That's really quite small. I'd prefer to see at least 6 B&S/AWG. Not just for the lower resistance but for the maximum current figure in a jacket (not in air which is about 3 times greater). See AWG Wire Sizes

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My thoughts also - 8B&S is far too small...

Ok that 8AWG may be why I'm having difficulty getting my batteries to go to float from the rear anderson plug .......as the batteries get near the top charge and the voltage ? Drops to to the final top up the wire may not be getting enough of it through to do the job in a reasonable time

I have some 6 AWG ....a change over of the wiring may be the answer ......

also 24 hours after I fully charged my batteries to float stage ( and with the car not been driven ) the voltage is 12.51 on both of them linked via so would that mean that one or both of them is not holding their charge ?

I’d go 4 AWG if you can!

You will slowly lose charge, lights, alarm, Traxide unit all draw a little bit off...

Plus any USB ports you have - they all draw even when not having items plugged in.

i

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Originally Posted by Tombie

I’d go 4 AWG if you can!

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Actually i I checked the wiring and I think it is already 6 AWG ......it is very close in thickness to some 6 AWG I bought recently .......I'd did notice though that the strands of wire in it are a sliver collar ....and not copper like the new 6 AWG I just bought

this original wiring I had gotten from Jaycar as I had told them I wanted to get power to the back and this is what they recommended ........is the sliver stuff less conductive than cooper ?

as for 4 AWG .....will that fit into standard 50 amp andersons ?

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Originally Posted by Tombie

You will slowly lose charge, lights, alarm, Traxide unit all draw a little bit off...

Plus any USB ports you have - they all draw even when not having items plugged in.

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Thanks .....good to know .....at least I now know I can get my batteries to full charge
.....just need to tune my setup to get it charging in reasonable times

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Originally Posted by landoman

also 24 hours after I fully charged my batteries to float stage ( and with the car not been driven ) the voltage is 12.51 on both of them linked via so would that mean that one or both of them is not holding their charge ?

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Landoman, I wouldn’t worry to much about that voltage level, as you have only carried out one slow charge cycle.

It will take a number of slow charge cycles to bring your batteries up to their best condition.

if you are not driving your vehicle for a few days, carry out another slow charge cycle and once the charger goes into float, disconnect the charger and remove both negative battery clamps again, and let the batteries sit for a day or two, checking the voltages every so often.

Also, for what you are doing right now, then8B&S ( 7.9mm2 ) is fine for charging, but if you plan to use the rear Anderson plug to charge batteries in a camper trailer or caravan, then upgrade to 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ).

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Originally Posted by landoman

........is the sliver stuff less conductive than cooper ?

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The silver colour is just electroplated on for better connection and corrosion resistance, the wire inside is still copper.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Landoman, I wouldn’t worry to much about that voltage level, as you have only carried out one slow charge cycle.

It will take a number of slow charge cycles to bring your batteries up to their best condition.

if you are not driving your vehicle for a few days, carry out another slow charge cycle and once the charger goes into float, disconnect the charger and remove both negative battery clamps again, and let the batteries sit for a day or two, checking the voltages every so often.

Also, for what you are doing right now, then8B&S ( 7.9mm2 ) is fine for charging, but if you plan to use the rear Anderson plug to charge batteries in a camper trailer or caravan, then upgrade to 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ).

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Thanks Tim .....great stuff ......this has been a great learning excercise and thanks to all who helped ......wonderful site this Aulro ....

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Landoman, I wouldn’t worry to much about that voltage level, as you have only carried out one slow charge cycle.

It will take a number of slow charge cycles to bring your batteries up to their best condition.

if you are not driving your vehicle for a few days, carry out another slow charge cycle and once the charger goes into float, disconnect the charger and remove both negative battery clamps again, and let the batteries sit for a day or two, checking the voltages every so often.

Also, for what you are doing right now, then8B&S ( 7.9mm2 ) is fine for charging, but if you plan to use the rear Anderson plug to charge batteries in a camper trailer or caravan, then upgrade to 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ).

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For the last two days I have been getting my battery to full charge and monitoring it in the morning
typically it has been 12.55 v at 9am
I then plug in my 8 phase charger ( on AGM MODE ) and monitor it throughout the day as it charges with these results
11.00 14.56 v
13.00 14.69 v
14.00. 14.70 v
17.00. 14.73v
19.00. 14.71v
21.00. 14.70

but the charger stays for about 9 hours in the absorption stage ....but as soon as I change modes ( at 21.00 hrs to NORMAL MODE) with in a few minutes it switches to float stage
if I now switch it back to AGM MODE in a few minutes it will also go to float stage.

So why will it not go to float from AGM MODE but will from normal mode and then will also go from AGM mode ....as long as I had gone to Normal mode first ??

Is this because I have one wet cell crank battery and one AGM linked to gether ...( I am feeding the charge into the AGM from Anderson in the rear ) .......and then through the SC80 to the wet cell crank battery .

Is this inability to get both batteries to go to float from the AGM a fault in my charger .....or is it because of the linkage of two batteries and the wet cell normal battery is calling the shots on which mode the charger is getting feedback on to go to float stage .

I guess I now know to use NORMAL MODE ......but as I'm feeding charge initially into an AGM
i thought it logical to set that mode on the charger

your thoughts appreciated .