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Thread: Brake light switch issue D4 - Help

  1. 20th June 2020, 11:52 AM #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gypsy_Pete View Post
    ... Has anyone successfully used the Ford part in their D4?
    This may be a bit late for Gypsy_Pete, but for anyone else who is wondering, the answer is Yes. As I was getting intermittent faults consistent with a failing brake light switch, I ordered a new one from a Ford dealer over eBay ($29, plus $7 Postage). Fitted last weekend. 3 drives since without any issues.

    First photo is of the part still in the bag. Second photo is old part (on left) and new part (on right). I have had the car since new and the switch has not been previously replaced. So perhaps a more accurate answer to G_P is both I and Land Rover have installed the Ford part!

    Also, for anyone else who is thinking of doing it themselves -- I am a case study showing that it can be done by someone who doesn't know the difference between allen key and a hex wrench.

    IMG_0095.jpgBLS.jpg
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  2. 20th June 2020, 01:17 PM #12
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    Brake light switch issue D4 - Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Gypsy_Pete View Post
    My 2011 D4 SD3.0 with 136,000 kms has just started dropping power when slowing down for roundabouts. I bought a new Ford brake light switch SW6572 and I took my D4 to my indy to have it fitted today. Within a kilometre of leaving him, I had multiple error messages - HDC not available, ABS not working, Ride height errors among them.

    I stopped the car, turned it off and restarted without errors. But another 500 metres down the road the errors returned and it felt like ABS was active and the car eventually would go no further. I pulled off the road with smoke coming from the front brakes. Called the indy and he jumped in a car and came across.

    He swapped the old switch back in and all returned to normal. He was as confused as I was. The new part looks exactly the same. Same shape, dimensions and even colour.

    Has anyone successfully used the Ford part in their D4?
    It is a FoMoCo branded part as delivered from LR factory so the identical part.

    The reason the Disco3/4 actually works quite well electrically compared to earlier (British car) criticism is Ford owned them at that time and looked after the development and got the electrics done right with proven top shelf kit.

    I’m on my third and here are the first two one being the original but both identical.



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  3. 20th June 2020, 07:01 PM #13
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    It's amazing how such a cheap spare to carry that's easy for a lay person to replace.

    I had a faulty brake light switch on a trip back in 2014 in a previous D4, intermittent limp mode from a gearbox fault. Made it back to Sydney but at one stage was going to be a very expensive tow from Innamincka or a long wait. From speaking recently to LR Assist it seems they are a different setup altogether than back then, with more of a commitment to find a solution. Still easier if you can fix on site, at least to keep your sat phone costs a bit lower.

    Definitely going to order one of these and print out the disco3.co.uk forum "guide" on this just in case it happens once again when we head off soon out the city.

    Is it worth getting two since they are cheap in case one came from a bad batch or just have bad luck?
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  4. 21st June 2020, 09:08 AM #14
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    You won't need a guide its as simple as removing the under column panel unplugging the connector on the back, twist clockwise to undo fit new switch and twist anti-clockwise to lock in place.
    Be sure to not push the plunger in before fitting.
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  5. 21st June 2020, 10:49 AM #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    You won't need a guide its as simple as ... unplugging the connector on the back ...
    LoanRangie's confidence in our fellow forum member's is admirable, but I fear misplaced. I not only read the disco3 guide, but watched 2 videos! (hint: the UK one is better than the US one).

    If I were doing it for the first time in the middle of nowhere, hot, bothered and not having a good day with the navigator, I fear I would have 'unplugged' the connector with the assistance of a hammer and pliers! That said, having now done it once, it is only those damn panel clips that go flying off that will cause any concern.
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