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Which redarc did he suggest??
My first isolator was a marine battery type switch..idiot switch I used to call it because one day some idiot is going to forget to turn it back on
I than installed a traxide.....
I now run the basic redarc 'SBI12' on my current defender and in three work cars....
They all work.....
Hi Brian
I have a 2011 2.7 D4 with Tim's Traxide kit, but I have replaced the SC80 with a 200A Redarc isolator. I understand the benefit of Tim's isolator, but I have always used redarc's and like their simplicity and override switch (which was not available on Tim's kit when i bought it IIRC). The main reason is that I want my main battery isolated shortly after I turn off the engine. Call me old fashioned, but I like my batteries separated at 12.5V. It's just a thing I have in my head with no great reason for it.
Cheers
Lucas
Quote:
Originally Posted by irondoc
i'm in the same boat. i think the crank battery should be protected at all costs.
having said that, ive just ordered 2 sc80's from Tim and willing to give it a go.
Sorry to hijack this thread but a question I've been meaning to ask. I have the Traxide USI-160 fitted with 2 Optima yellow tops. The batteries have been fitted for about 2 years and are not holding charge. I changed them over for 2 more Optimas I had spare on Friday and it starts fine at the moment. I hardly drive the 110 unless we are on holiday so sometimes it sits for weeks without moving. The only thing I do is sometimes unlock and re-lock car to access tools. Would the fact I hardly drive the vehicle contribute to the problem. The battery did run flat once when I left the interior light on but its an Optima so I would have thought it should be able to handle that.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Hi Weeds and Lucas, just a question, if you wanted to cutout to be around when the motor is turned off, then you could have had both systems, User Selectable 12.5v or 12.0v cutout with my USI-160?
I sort of do this with mine at times as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by irondoc
I find the SC80 in my D4 fantastic,but as the vehicle is not used a lot at times,i now have a switch on the SC80 negative wire .
This allows my to isolate the two batteries,and turn off the SC80, when I need to,or both may get to a low state of charge,particularly the vehicle starting battery.This also happens if doing short runs.
The switch also lets me easily and conveniently charge the two batteries separately,if I want to.
This is not a complaint,it is just the owner of the vehicle needs to know how the system works.
It would be impossible to develop a system that works for everyone,in all situations.
The latest SC80 also uses less power,which will reduce the issue.
Hi Eevo, your order was being shipped tomorrow, but I will upgrade it to 2 x SC80-BM instead of the standard SC80s.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eevo
Similar to the USI-160, the new SC80-BMs have a User Selectable 12.7v or 12.0v Cutout as well a few other new features.
I'll get you to give me some feedback if you don't mind?
Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
thanks Tim.
that would be good thanks.
i can have 12.7 in my friends 4wd as she doesn't drive it often
and i'll have the 12.0 in mine.
Hi Loneranger and yours is a common situation.Quote:
Originally Posted by loneranger
As I posted earlier in this thread, if it is convenient try connecting a solar panel to the system.
A 10w panel can be used and no solar regulator is needed.
BTW, if you still have the old Optimas, try the same with them and I bet within a month, they will be back to near full capacity.
Happy with my selection and don't foresee needing any extra functions, I haven't even wired the jump start wire to a switch.....Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
from memory I paid $110 ish for the redarc, not sure what your systems go for these days