Traxide vs. Redarc

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Loneranger and yours is a common situation.

As I posted earlier in this thread, if it is convenient try connecting a solar panel to the system.

A 10w panel can be used and no solar regulator is needed.

BTW, if you still have the old Optimas, try the same with them and I bet within a month, they will be back to near full capacity.

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Thanks Tim. That's an easy fix. I was going to plug the old ones into my Cetec and see if it replenishes them but I have a solar panel I can use if that will work as well.

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Originally Posted by weeds

Happy with my selection and don't foresee needing any extra functions, I haven't even wired the jump start wire to a switch.....

from memory I paid $110 ish for the redarc, not sure what your systems go for these days

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Yep, I can't compete with those prices but it's horses for courses. If they meet your needs, job done.

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Originally Posted by loneranger

Thanks Tim. That's an easy fix. I was going to plug the old ones into my Cetec and see if it replenishes them but I have a solar panel I can use if that will work as well.

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Hi again Loneranger, and the solar charging will actually do a better job than ANY brand of battery charger.


The reason being that the solar “turns off “ every night and “turns on” every morning.


This means the battery settles over night and then get the electrolyte stud up every morning.


This progressively dissolves most, if not all of the sulphration that can build up while the batteries are not in use.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi again Loneranger, and the solar charging will actually do a better job than ANY brand of battery charger.


The reason being that the solar “turns off “ every night and “turns on” every morning.


This means the battery settles over night and then get the electrolyte stud up every morning.


This progressively dissolves most, if not all of the sulphration that can build up while the batteries are not in use.

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I'll try the solar panel option first. Cheers.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Yep, I can't compete with those prices but it's horses for courses. If they meet your needs, job done.

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i think you offer better support and warranty.
worth the extra money imho

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Originally Posted by Eevo

thanks Tim.
that would be good thanks.
i can have 12.7 in my friends 4wd as she doesn't drive it often
and i'll have the 12.0 in mine.

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Hi Eevo, and because of the very reason scarry ( Paul ) posted, the new standard SC80s now have an automatic 72 hour TIME-OUT feature, where the isolator turns off 72 hours after the motor is turned off. This is to save wasting battery power when the vehicle is not being used.


But the new SC80-BM isolators have a User Selectable 72 hour ( factory setting ) or 18 hour ( User Selectable ) TIME-OUT settings


I suggest you leave yours at 72 hours but with your friends 4x4, if it is not being driven very often, then set it to 18 Hours.


This will reduce the isolator power usage time but will still allow time for the auxiliary battery to back discharge and top up the cranking battery.


This is one of the main advantages my isolator offer over all other types.


This feature not only helps to keep the cranking battery in a higher state of charge, but it will actually help to extend the operating lifespan of the cranking battery.

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Originally Posted by Homestar

I've seen and fitted many differrent units over the years, but the Traxide unit is by far the best and most versatile unit on the market that I've seen. It does heaps more than other do, and yes it does draw from the starting battery - but cuts out way before it will ever be an issue to start the vehicle.

What it does do is bring your starting battery to a much higher state of charge after a few weeks of use - before running one in my L322 I used to get intermittent faults when starting the vehicle - ABS and traction control stuff due to a dip in the battery volts when cranking. This was completely eliminated with the Traxide kit.

I'd suggest your Auto Ekectrician is just pushing the brand he sells onto you because if he really did know his stuff, he wouldn't make claims like that.

Oh, and I'm an Electrician with over 20 years experience on isolated power systems, so I actually understand what the Traxide kit actually does, and what others do (or don't do as the case may be). :)

My advice would be to find an Autolec who doesn't bag out gear he knows very little about - I just find that unprofessional.

Just my 2 cents, I have nothing to do with the Traxide product, just used and installed several of his variants into vehicles and found them to be far superior to other crud on the market most of which is just a voltage activated switch and has no smarts at all - often for a similar or higher price than the Traxide kits.

I would highly recommend them and it sounds like you can do your own stuff, installing one is a snap. :)

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well i'm sold --- thanks for all the replies. makes my decision so much easier. will be going down the Traxide path for sure.

No problems with the Traxide 160 in my Defender - works fine.

Hi Tim - you don't happen to have a 'trade-in' option for and old style SC80 for the new SC80-BM do you? [bigwhistle]

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Originally Posted by Ranga

Hi Tim - you don't happen to have a 'trade-in' option for and old style SC80 for the new SC80-BM do you? [bigwhistle]

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Hi Ranga and PM me your phone number and I will see what we can come up with.