Thread: Traxide vs. Redarc

Hi Brian

I have a 2011 2.7 D4 with Tim's Traxide kit, but I have replaced the SC80 with a 200A Redarc isolator. I understand the benefit of Tim's isolator, but I have always used redarc's and like their simplicity and override switch (which was not available on Tim's kit when i bought it IIRC). The main reason is that I want my main battery isolated shortly after I turn off the engine. Call me old fashioned, but I like my batteries separated at 12.5V. It's just a thing I have in my head with no great reason for it.

Cheers
Lucas

Originally Posted by irondoc

Call me old fashioned, but I like my batteries separated at 12.5V. It's just a thing I have in my head with no great reason for it.

i'm in the same boat. i think the crank battery should be protected at all costs.

having said that, ive just ordered 2 sc80's from Tim and willing to give it a go.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

The other was a D4 owner who, again, was conned into replacing one of my isolators with a DC/DC device.


I only found out about the D4 when the customer called me to find out why his system did not work with my isolator and was now even worse with the DC/DC device.


The guy hardly drove his D4 and this was his problem, a problem that was fixed by him connecting a solar panel to his D4 while it was not being used.

Sorry to hijack this thread but a question I've been meaning to ask. I have the Traxide USI-160 fitted with 2 Optima yellow tops. The batteries have been fitted for about 2 years and are not holding charge. I changed them over for 2 more Optimas I had spare on Friday and it starts fine at the moment. I hardly drive the 110 unless we are on holiday so sometimes it sits for weeks without moving. The only thing I do is sometimes unlock and re-lock car to access tools. Would the fact I hardly drive the vehicle contribute to the problem. The battery did run flat once when I left the interior light on but its an Optima so I would have thought it should be able to handle that.

Hi Weeds and Lucas, just a question, if you wanted to cutout to be around when the motor is turned off, then you could have had both systems, User Selectable 12.5v or 12.0v cutout with my USI-160?

Originally Posted by irondoc

Hi Brian

I have a 2011 2.7 D4 with Tim's Traxide kit, but I have replaced the SC80 with a 200A Redarc isolator. I understand the benefit of Tim's isolator, but I have always used redarc's and like their simplicity and override switch (which was not available on Tim's kit when i bought it IIRC). The main reason is that I want my main battery isolated shortly after I turn off the engine. Call me old fashioned, but I like my batteries separated at 12.5V. It's just a thing I have in my head with no great reason for it.

Cheers
Lucas

I sort of do this with mine at times as well.
I find the SC80 in my D4 fantastic,but as the vehicle is not used a lot at times,i now have a switch on the SC80 negative wire .
This allows my to isolate the two batteries,and turn off the SC80, when I need to,or both may get to a low state of charge,particularly the vehicle starting battery.This also happens if doing short runs.


The switch also lets me easily and conveniently charge the two batteries separately,if I want to.

This is not a complaint,it is just the owner of the vehicle needs to know how the system works.

It would be impossible to develop a system that works for everyone,in all situations.

The latest SC80 also uses less power,which will reduce the issue.

Originally Posted by Eevo

i'm in the same boat. i think the crank battery should be protected at all costs.

having said that, ive just ordered 2 sc80's from Tim and willing to give it a go.

Hi Eevo, your order was being shipped tomorrow, but I will upgrade it to 2 x SC80-BM instead of the standard SC80s.

Similar to the USI-160, the new SC80-BMs have a User Selectable 12.7v or 12.0v Cutout as well a few other new features.

I'll get you to give me some feedback if you don't mind?

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Eevo, your order was being shipped tomorrow, but I will upgrade it to 2 x SC80-BM instead of the standard SC80s.

Similar to the USI-160, the new SC80-BMs have a User Selectable 12.7v or 12.0v Cutout as well a few other new features.

thanks Tim.
that would be good thanks.
i can have 12.7 in my friends 4wd as she doesn't drive it often
and i'll have the 12.0 in mine.

Originally Posted by loneranger

Sorry to hijack this thread but a question I've been meaning to ask. I have the Traxide USI-160 fitted with 2 Optima yellow tops. The batteries have been fitted for about 2 years and are not holding charge. I changed them over for 2 more Optimas I had spare on Friday and it starts fine at the moment. I hardly drive the 110 unless we are on holiday so sometimes it sits for weeks without moving. The only thing I do is sometimes unlock and re-lock car to access tools. Would the fact I hardly drive the vehicle contribute to the problem. The battery did run flat once when I left the interior light on but its an Optima so I would have thought it should be able to handle that.

Hi Loneranger and yours is a common situation.

As I posted earlier in this thread, if it is convenient try connecting a solar panel to the system.

A 10w panel can be used and no solar regulator is needed.

BTW, if you still have the old Optimas, try the same with them and I bet within a month, they will be back to near full capacity.