Thread: Which Model - Long Term Purchase

Agree with Martin. If you find roughly what you want, at a good price, be prepared to jump on it there and then. They sell quickly if the price is right.

Originally Posted by Bytemrk

I get your calculations (even if they are a little out ... specific gravity or diesel is between 0.82 and 0.95 and the containers weigh something ) but overall you are right it's touch and go and the way it's driven makes a massive difference....

But the point still stands that unnecessary weight up there is asking for trouble and as a general rule, a bad thing.... that's why I chose a long range tank..... which I make sure gets used regularly so it doesn't "grow things"

So many choices and opinions.... not easy for the OP to decide what's right for him.....

Strop, once you work out the options that are right for you... and start on the accessory round about......my other advice is be wary of weight..... these things get very heavy very fast .

Actually weight is certainly a huge issue IMO. For myself, I have wondered about insurance if I had a crash, with a costly van behind me, and the insurance company comes along, and calculates the weight, and then declares its illegal, so I've got no insurance.

I worked out the weight of a tyre carrier on the back, an extra fuel tank, a fridge in the back, and a van on the back ... and I think just those (with 250kg on the rear tow bar and currently my LR tow bar is quite close to the rear axel unlike a Mitch Hitch) and the rear axle weight goes over the limit of the rear axle very easily with that setup. And if you put a steel bull bar on the front some weight comes off the rear axle - but then you start approaching the limit of the vehicle. Then add 75 kg on the roof and you're over for sure, two people in the car, some other gear like a second battery, a tool kit, a better jack, a chain saw maybe and some clothes and food - from the calculations I did a couple of years ago.

Being a Toyota guy, I investigated 200 series vehicles - and they were worse. Accept they are easy to increase the load carrying capability. That cannot be done in Australia with the D4. And the ultimate issue for all vehicles is if their load carrying capacity can be increased, is the axle capacity. I even found it difficult to find the axle capacity of the D4 ... I think I did eventually, and have it on a spreadsheet I used when choosing between a 200 and the Disco. Glad I got the Disco though - ignoring its superiority driving in the city, when towing, its steering is so darn accurate, its just a piece of cake to drive even with over two tonne behind me. The steering and planted front end of the Disco is pure gold IMO. Also unlike a 200, you don't have to spend $5k on doing the suspension. But then - you should spend on the 18" wheels IMO.

I've also thought that while a bull bar is cool, and prevents minor damage, I am not so sure if I hit something considerable, whether its going to stop a major repair anyway. I thought with my 1997 Prado (in 1997) an alloy bumper would add safety - I think it did - but then, my '97 Prado does not have air bags. I risked electric windows (back then many thought them dangerous in deep water - which they are).

The weight is a big issue, and I feel a bit more comfortable carrying extra fuel on my van (which can carry as it is 80 litres). And if I sell my D4 (unlikely though because I prefer a chassis to tow) it will be easier to sell without a wheel carrier, and fuel tank underneath, and a bull bar up front. I do love the bull bars for looks though ... but so far, ARB have not got the front parkers to work!!! I do love the front parkers in city parking!!!!

Working out the weight issues is something everyone should do that wants to add lots of off road gear to a Disco.

Alright then, the inspection process. I have in mind a few places I could take a car for inspection either pre or post purchase. What is it you should look for when you are doing an inspection.

I suppose looking under the car for damage and to see if it has been used off road. It looks like oil leaks would be hard to spot. A drive to see if the gearbox is ok?

What advice do you have for a novice 4WD person?

Laurie

Laurie take it to a recognised LR specialist and pay them to do a complete check of everything mechanical and electrical, with a written report on any and every fault, including approx cost of fixing. If the car is less than 3 years old, you should be able to claim warranty on most things, apart from wear and tear items. Gearbox is particularly important, if it's been used for towing and/or kms are up towards 80,000kms when the box would be due for a complete flush. Control arm bushes might need replacing by then too.

Originally Posted by Strop

What advice do you have for a novice 4WD person?

After buying it do a 4WD course, preferably with a Land Rover person running it. The GOE off road companion book is recommended. Sold by Gordon on this forum - GGHAGGIS. Here's a link to his site.

Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation


Martin

Hate it when you make an offer on a car and it comes up sold on CarSales as sold and it's not you.......

What was the deal Laurie?

Don't know what it sold for but a 2013 HSE 81,000k. Asking $66. I obviously offered less. $hit happens.