Do you have an electric brake controller? Will your tyres have decent tread? Is your tow hitch in good condition? If you get a service do it at least a week before leaving in case of something unforeseen. That's everything I'd consider.
Scott
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						Later this year I will be driving from SA to Vic towing a car and trailer (2000km round trip and 2000kg). Is there anything special I should do to the D3 TDv6 before I go? I have not towed with this car with such a weight and for such a distance.
The trans oil was changed about 20,000km ago.
It will be due for a service (120,000km) around the time I go so I would assume it would be adviseable to do the service before I go rather than wait for my return?
Car is standard.
We will be encountering near freezing overnight temperatures although the days will warm up.
Do you have an electric brake controller? Will your tyres have decent tread? Is your tow hitch in good condition? If you get a service do it at least a week before leaving in case of something unforeseen. That's everything I'd consider.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
If it's a new van/trailer you are towing, check the indicators too. LED style require an interface unit if you haven't already got one.
Oztourer
MY05 TDV6 HSE, Buckingham Blue
Front Runner Slimline II roofrack and rear ladder, Safari Snorkle, Mitch Hitch, Traxide D3-DU, Bushman Fridge, Icom IC-440N UHF, Hema HN7, Tyredog TPMS, GVIF and reversing camera
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						Car tyres good. Trailer tyres new. Old trailer. Non-LED lights but I have the gizmo already for LED lights. Car hitch is as new as far as I can tell (they have never given me alot of confidence!). Quality electric brake controller (I fitted new electric brakes to trailer recently).
The car had new disks and pads all round 12 months ago however in teh last 6 months I have had a shimmy under hard braking so presumably a front disk has warped. Probably a good idea to get that sorted before I go due to the additional load on the car brakes (even though Ihave the trailer brakes set reasonably high). I have never liked the D3 brake feel.
I really don't want to add a trans oil cooler. Not required?? LR obviously didn't think so.
How long since the wheel bearings were repacked? I'd guess you would have done it when the brakes were put on, but have to ask. That is the biggest single cause of trailer failure I have ever seen.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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						Supporter2000kg is nothing if it is the actual weight. Even with 3500kg you don't need to worry or do anything special.
Bob
2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
2019 Discovery 5 SD6 SE, 20 inch wheels, 275/55R20 Nitto Grappler G2 tyres
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						Yes my thought are that 1200kg tools & car plus 700kg trailer ~ 2000kg isn't all that much. Just 12 hours of 100km/h might change the picture although a constant speed is probably much easier on the car that stop start stuff.
Trailer wheel bearings recently redone.
OK, sounds like I get the car serviced as usual and head off!
If your towing a decent sized reasonably heavy trailer long distances then put the auto in sports mode, especially if the country is not flat, yes it will use a bit more fuel but the auto won't lock in sixth and then eventually over heat which they can do it left in drive.
If the auto over heats, which many have that tow long distances, you will be lucky to make it to your distination and even if you do the auto service cost and potential repair bill will make you wish you hadn't worried about the extra fuel usage.
Cheers,
Terry
D1 V8 (Gone)D2a HSE V8 (Gone)D3 HSE TDV6 (Unfortunately Gone)D4 V8
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						SubscriberThe Redarc brake controller sort of doesn't work when its new - it has to be calibrated. Which is driving forwards and then braking. So when you attach, the Redarc doesn't respond as its supposed too ... I forget if I turned the vehicle off - I think I did - and then I thought the controller was faulty. Then I drove off anyway, hence depending on the vehicles brakes (with a 2.5 tonne load behind), and I braked - and then the unit calibrated itself and its lights came on correctly and everything was sweet ever since.
So if you haven't towed, its best to before you go ... especially if you have the clever top Redarc controller.
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