Thread: Auto trans shudder solutions - how did they work out?

Originally Posted by Gullible

The D3 has the start of the transmission shudder due to the glazing in the toque converter.

I have read about a lot of remedies when the issue was first beginning to appear. I was wondering what members experiences have been and how long the solution lasted?

Did the 'added a bottle of Dr Tranny and it fixed it' last for 5,000km or 25,000km? Same with replacing the torque converter with a refurbished one, is it still going?

And finally the question that I know I'm not going to like the answer to, anyone recently had their auto box rebuilt, if so how much did it cost?

There's a lot of info in the transmission thread. Rebuild quotes vary widely in the order of $3500 to $8000. There's some evidence you get what you pay for.
Some say if you can replace the torque converter early enough you can save yourself a rebuild. Seems to be very case by case - presumably related to total kms driven, service and use history.
Ppl say the Dr Tranny works but obviously it's putting off the inevitable.
I had my 2010 6 speed serviced at around 200k and it developed a revs flutter and shudder relatively soon after. Turned out when I took it to a different mechanic that the shudder was due to the rubbish non-Lifeguard fluid that had been put in it.

Originally Posted by Stuart02

There's a lot of info in the transmission thread. Rebuild quotes vary widely in the order of $3500 to $8000. There's some evidence you get what you pay for.
Some say if you can replace the torque converter early enough you can save yourself a rebuild. Seems to be very case by case - presumably related to total kms driven, service and use history.
Ppl say the Dr Tranny works but obviously it's putting off the inevitable.
I had my 2010 6 speed serviced at around 200k and it developed a revs flutter and shudder relatively soon after. Turned out when I took it to a different mechanic that the shudder was due to the rubbish non-Lifeguard fluid that had been put in it.

My shudder appeared at 135000 Dr Tranny was used for a further 40000 then changed to a metal pan and drain and refill with Lifeguard 6 twice.
Yesterday put in for Torque converter and transmission rebuild at an expected cost of $6500
So the job was put off for 2 years and approx 45000 kms.
The cost includes remove / replace at local independent and rebuild at ZF in Sydney

Originally Posted by gandalf

My shudder appeared at 135000 Dr Tranny was used for a further 40000 then changed to a metal pan and drain and refill with Lifeguard 6 twice.
Yesterday put in for Torque converter and transmission rebuild at an expected cost of $6500
So the job was put off for 2 years and approx 45000 kms.
The cost includes remove / replace at local independent and rebuild at ZF in Sydney

So you had it serviced and it only lasted 5k after that? I have heard of accelerated "degradation" post-service being a thing when they haven't been regularly serviced (I was warned of this when getting mine serviced for the first time at close to 200k)

Originally Posted by Stuart02

So you had it serviced and it only lasted 5k after that? I have heard of accelerated "degradation" post-service being a thing when they haven't been regularly serviced (I was warned of this when getting mine serviced for the first time at close to 200k)

Just to clarify, my torque converter didn't get any worse after I did the service.
It just didn't get any better, so I decided to bite the bullet now, rather than put it off any longer.

I bought my D3 with 310k on it. Shudder and hunting evident at time of purchase. Had non LifeGuard fluid and steel pan installed, then at 347k 2 tubes of Dr Tranny. Lasted until about 355k with no issues. Transmission is dead from age, having it replaced next week.

Latest Land Rover Monthly has an article says around 150,000 miles the auto needs a full flush, new filter and new oil. They fitted a metal sump and separate filter.

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Latest Land Rover Monthly has an article says around 150,000 miles the auto needs a full flush, new filter and new oil. They fitted a metal sump and separate filter.

Which aligns with our service books which say 234,000km I think. ZF, the auto manufacturer themselves specify 60k miles / 100k km, quite a disparity.
I have to admit, even I think 150k miles is not conducive to a long life. Given LR state 'filled for life' they have clearly decided a Disco is end of life at 230,000km.

I'd certainly change auto oil more frequently than 150,000 miles.
Simply draining it may not get all the oil either.
Don't forget the auto filter either as I know from experience it can clog up.