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Thread: Driving with a Camper Trailer in Tow

  1. #1
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    Driving with a Camper Trailer in Tow

    Hi All,

    I recently bought a camper trailer with electric brakes. I have a Tow Pro Brake Controller installed in my D4. My questions is:

    When driving steep offroad (dirt tracks) descents, what is your preferred method of towing that allows the trailer brake controller to work as it should? i.e. low range in manual/low range auto/low range with special program selected.

    Also, what is your preferred method for similar steep ascents?

    I am experimenting with a few options, but would like to know what others are using with success when towing.

    Cheers
    Brad

  2. #2
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    Tumbi Umbi, Central Coast, NSW
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    All I know is that it isn't a good idea to set the trailer braking too strong/hard/aggressive.

    When Tank and I took a fellow AULRO member in to Bendethera a few years ago, he thought it would be a good idea to increase the setting on the trailer braking to ensure that the trailer didn't try to push the vehicle down the hills.

    At the first opportunity, I told him that I could see from behind that the trailer brakes were locking up and the trailer was actually sliding sideways at times. I guess that on the steep downhill sections, some of the trailer weight was transferred to the towbar and that there was less weight on the wheels.

    He backed the setting off a bit and the problem went away.

    Maybe you already knew that.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    What kind of Tow Pro? Elite or earlier version? They work differently to start with. Apart from that assuming drums on the camper?

    As an idea with our Ultimate we ran the TP at #5 normally on and off bitumen. Used the same settings in manual and/or auto mode. When off road and in LR completely different situation so completely different approach to settings. Manual was normally the way to go but it all depends. High Country was different from the Simpson

    We moved to the TPE and with the Ulti we ran #4 per above.

    Now we have a Q+ with disc brakes we are running a range of 1.5-2-5 and no higher on or off bitumen. This camper weighs in at 2500kg TARE so a lot more than a 900kg Ultimate. Combined with ALKO discs you are looking at different situations completely

    So WTFH?
    Experiment is the recommendation. Our experience is 99% of TPE and TP users set theirs far too high regardless of what they are towing. These things push our around 9V on activation which is a lot more than most on the market so response is faster and stronger. Would not suggest going beyond #6 at best with something light and on drums

    The D4 stops incredibly quickly and well. You should never feel the camper on the back! It should all happen with no fuss or pushing the car ever. A camper controlling a tow vehicle does not bear thinking about

    Rob
    Rob

    MY15 TDV6. Compomotives with KO2's, Traxide 160-DBMS, Llams, OE bar, custom rear storage slide, Rhino roof storage system, LSM TPMS, ICOM 440N, rear ladder and GOE compressor guard

  4. #4
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    I have a two pro elite and my trailer has 10" drum brakes.

    What I am really interested in is not the brake controller setting, but more so the settings you use on your car. I might be wrong here, but if you descend a steep dirt track in low range with special program engaged (possibly hill descend), the car will handle the braking either by engine and/or a combination of braking, thus eliminating the trailer brakes. or am i totally wrong about this i.e the trailers brakes will still be activated by regardless of your foot apply brake pressure to the brake pedal.

    I also find if I don't have special programs engaged (or use manual gear changes) when ascending a steep incline, coming from a relative flat section to the incline, there is a lack of response from the accelerator i.e. putting power down. It seems the car takes a moment to sort itself and at times i can lose a little momentum.

    Cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Mont Albert, Victoria
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    I have a Tow Pro elite proportional controller. When offroad I sometimes use manual mode (Green) so I can set the amount of braking. Sometimes I user Auto (blue), normally for higher speed dirt. In Auto mode I find manually downshifting gears whilst braking works really well. The extra braking force when downshifting informs the trailer brake to increase braking strength.

    I haven't done Hill descent control with the trailer on yet.

    On sand I turned off the trailer brake. I can't be sure, but I was worried traction control might cause the trailer brake to come on. Logic says it shouldn't happen but the trailer felt lighter when the brakes were completely off. (But probably just in my head.)

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Hill Descent Control (HDC) will activate the Discoverys brake lights if the Discovery automatically applies braking, this will also activate the trailer electric brakes. If there is just engine braking being used no brake lights so no trailer brakes.

    Traction Control (TC) doesn't activate the Discovery brake lights, so the trailer electric brakes will also not activate.

    I do not know if Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) actives the Discovery brake lights.
    2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
    2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
    2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)

  7. #7
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    ACT
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    Hi Bradmc,

    Have a D4 with Towpro (Early elite model) and 1900kg camper and travelled some steep, very steep and really, really steep inclines....in the wet.

    Definitely Low range manual for the decent in gravel mode as a minimum - this engages the diffs and traction control smarts....HDC helps also.

    Adjust the Towpro till it you can feel a little drag, during the decent you don't want the trailer pushing you....so you have to adjust through feel...as mentioned below, just before locking up.

    When it gets slippery, I've had the unpleasant experience, even with the relevant special program engaged, of the trailer pushing the rear sideways and end up in a jack knife. All the traction control in the world does not help when the rear wheels loose traction on a clay track by being pushed from behind....and was never hooning, doing a very controlled speed...gripping the steering wheel, celnching the cheeks…and wife getting out and walking!

    And finally, on the really, really wet decent.....i've ended up using the trailer as an anchor. Hill decent on as slow as possible, hover over the brake and finger on the manual trailer brake locking up the rear wheels at times watching out the side mirror to keep control. Normally this is only for 20 or 50 mtrs....but the only way to keep the rig in line.

    My wife still comes on trips, which is a good thing!

    Col.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Thanks for the tips guys. Very helpful as always.

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